tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29684437552865587962024-03-19T11:02:41.522-07:00Heather Howells: Braids and LacesI got out of my comfort zone and discovered what I was capable of!
Marathons,ultra running,adventure racing, backpacking and hiking experiences of a mere mortal.Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.comBlogger145125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-67959913166802857822020-05-16T17:18:00.001-07:002020-05-16T17:18:37.521-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Join us along our journey from Temple 1-40 on the Shikoku 88 Temples pilgrimage hike. </div>
Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-26863419260277707662020-03-22T06:23:00.000-07:002020-05-16T17:13:25.656-07:00Temple 40 and a race against time <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 17px;">The Ryokan was noisy all night with the loud snoring of the other male tenants all night long. It kept Dreadknot awake but somehow I managed to sleep through it all. The cigarette smoke from the guy in the room adjacent to us easily wafted through the paper thin walls separating us.</span><br />
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<span class="s1">At 6:44 am we made our way to Temple 40 (Kanjiziaji) , the first temple in Ehime and located up the street. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This is the furthest temple away from number 1 and has statues representing the seven zodiac. As usual it was lovely and peaceful and afterwards we sat and waited for a bus to take us to Uwajima bus station to get onto another bus for Temple 41. Halfway through the bus ride we decided to rather just keep heading straight towards the airport after numerous warnings from friends that we might not be able to get back into Honolulu due to travel restrictions, flight suspensions and border closures. I must say that Dreadknot-san’s navigational skills with the mapping and bus and train timetables is absolutely astounding! I am so glad to have him on my team!! After 10 hours of catching buses and trains we arrived at Kansai Airport in Osaka. It was 8 pm and we made our way straight to the Hawaiian Airlines desk. They instantly changed our ticket to tomorrow evening and informed us that flights to Hawaii will cease in three days time. Whew! We made it just in time!</span></div>
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<span class="s1">So we get to spend a night in Osaka and do some shopping tomorrow and then get to go home before everything shuts down due to the coronavirus pandemic. </span></div>
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<span class="s1">Although disappointed that we couldn’t complete our quest this time around, we are truly thankful that we were able to have such a spectacular adventure up to Temple 40.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Arigato to the people of Japan and especially Shikoku who made our journey so special and memorable. We honestly were treated with such kindness and we shall be eternally grateful. It has been quite a profound experience to be gifted with “ossetai” (gifts) on almost a daily basis by complete strangers as symbols of acknowledgement and encouragement. We hope to return once the world has found calmness, health and peace and continue where we left off. </span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-57042313553953455042020-03-21T04:54:00.002-07:002020-05-16T17:13:47.466-07:00Temple 38 & 39<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 17px;">A train, a bus and some walking took us to the most</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 17px;"> </span> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 17px;">southwesterly point of Shikoku Island to Temple 38 (Kongofukuji). It is believed that you can set off for the land of paradise from here. The Ashizuri point where the temple is located is absolutely beautiful and the Temple itself has immaculate gardens with a beautiful pond. So much inspiration for the garden I want to create in the future. Another 2 bus rides got us to Temple 39 (Enkoji). An eye washing well which is claimed to cure eye illnesses is present on the grounds. There is a statue of a turtle with a red bell on its back which represents the legend that such a turtle came there from the ocean in years gone by.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 17px;"> </span><br />
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<span class="s1">As we stood in the temple grounds, we realized that this was the last temple in Kochi Prefecture and the end of the “ascetic training “ phase of the journey. The next phase in Ehime Prefecture is the “enlightenment phase”. One concept we discussed between ourselves was the principal of “ suffering is caused by craving and clinging to worldly things”, so we have decided not to cling to the idea of completing our adventure at this time. We can always come back and complete it when the world is more at ease.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">The practical implications are that currently we are on the furthest point of the island from where we need to be to get to the airport. Our plan is to catch buses tomorrow which will bypass 3 other temples... so we will stop off at those and then hop on a train across Shikoku to Tokushima followed by a 3 hour bus to the airport and hopefully get onto a flight home. We already know that we’ll have to spend two weeks in quarantine there once we arrive back. </span></div>
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<span class="s1">Tonight we stay in a Ryokan (hostel type accommodation) next to Temple 40.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Strange times indeed!</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-4977760890918789382020-03-20T17:42:00.002-07:002020-05-16T17:14:23.940-07:00Temple 36 & 37<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 17px;">The Usa Peninsula area where we stayed at the minshuku is beautiful and peaceful. Our hike down to Temple 36 (Shoryuji) gave us epic vistas of the bay and it looks like a perfect place for families to go on vacation to, although not too built up or busy. The temple is named after Kukai’s teacher of Shingon Buddhism who he studied under in Shoryuji, China.</span><br />
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<span class="s1">From the temple we had to backtrack and go back over the huge bridge to walk the next 23 km to the town <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>of Susaki. From there it would be another 37 km.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Along the shoreline walk we stumbled upon a little pizzeria on the waters edge with a full-on brick pizza oven. It was around lunch time so we had to stop.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">The rest of the journey to Temple 37 included punishing road walks past bays, farms, villages, towns, industries, through numerous road tunnels .... on and on for back breaking distances and by the way, we’re still in Kochi Prefecture which seems like it will never end. When will we reach the enlightenment stage I wonder? Or will we ever get there?</span></div>
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<span class="s1">We’ve had at least four different people handing us citrus fruits as ossetai which always came at very welcome moments.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Other observations have included admiring the bird life here. Sea hawks are everywhere, crows, ravens, cranes and ducks to name a few. Every inch of vacant and available land is used to grow food and it seems that most people have a veggie garden attached to their homes. Another thing we’ve noticed is that everyone seems to have a nice car! There is also a frustrating lack of garbage bins anywhere. We have no idea where people put their rubbish and end up walking for miles and miles with our rubbish to find a place to properly dispose of it.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">In every single town we’ve walked through, there are megaphones erected on poles in the middle and at 7am, noon and 5 pm a loud song gets played to indicate those times of the day. We leave our backpacks unattended at temples without fear of our stuff being stolen which is amazing. We had to learn this level of trust.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Finally we got to Shimanto Town late at night and went to Temple 37 (Iwamotoji) were we asked the elderly caretaker lady whether there was any Tsuyado (free Henro accommodation). She gladly took us to a storage garage which had a cot bed and is intended for this purpose. We pitched our tent in the room which had a locked door.... all safe and sound. </span></div>
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<span class="s1">I came across this which is really quite wonderful:</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Seven Gifts Needing No Wealth </span></div>
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<li class="li1" style="font-size: 17px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1">Look upon others with kindness </span></li>
<li class="li1" style="font-size: 17px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1">Smile to others when you meet</span></li>
<li class="li1" style="font-size: 17px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1">Speak to others with kind words</span></li>
<li class="li1" style="font-size: 17px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1">Offer to others those free services you are capable of offering.</span></li>
<li class="li1" style="font-size: 17px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1">Offer your heart to others </span></li>
<li class="li1" style="font-size: 17px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1">Surrender your seat or similar location to those that could better use them.</span></li>
<li class="li1" style="font-size: 17px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1">Offer your own lodging to others in need.</span></li>
</ol>
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<span class="s1">Day 17: The temperature gauge read 3 degrees C when we got onto the temple grounds at 7am. The sound of drumming from the Shinto temple next door permeated the air. Fortunately there happened to be free Wi-Fi at the noukyosho office and when I looked on social media briefly, a few of my friends had sent me information about the level 3 travel advisory saying that all US citizens are advised to go home. We’re in the middle of nowhere and it’s Saturday. Hawaiian Airlines has discontinued their phone number due to being overwhelmed and we can’t get hold of them. I sent them an email 2 days ago asking for advice regarding return flights and have not received a reply. What a strange new reality we dare living in due to Covid-19!</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Dreadknot and I decided to change our adventure plans and hopped on a train to Nakamura Town where we could catch a bus to Temple 38. He is plotting a train and bus route that will get us through the second half of the 88 Temples quickly while we try to figure out how we’re going to get home sooner.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">This adventure has changed from a slow hiking challenge to an amazing race...</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-49787368513709539672020-03-19T05:24:00.001-07:002020-05-16T17:14:49.020-07:00Temple 34 & 35<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 17px;">It felt great waking up in a secure room on the temple grounds. We have been averaging 9-10 hours of sleep per night, exhausted after walking all day.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 17px;"> </span><br />
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<span class="s1">Temple 34 (Tanemaji) was a place where Kukai planted five kinds is seeds: rice, wheat, two types of millet and beans which he had evidently brought back from China. People also pray for safe childbirth at this temple.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">During our journey from 34 to 35 we got off track and lost. We didn’t see adequate little signs, arrows or stickers pointing us in the right direction. Eventually we stopped at a flower shop to ask for directions and a very kind woman called Tomo, gave us a ride in her car to get us back on track. She dropped us off at an Udon Noodle restaurant where we were able to sample this local delicacy for the first time. Thank you Tomo!</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Up another hill and many stairs to Temple 35 (Kiyotakiji) we climbed. At the top weee beautiful vistas of the valley below. The temple was gorgeous with a huge statue of Gyoki who founded this temple 723.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Late afternoon brought with it a drizzle and we planned to make our way to a Henro hut we could see on the map to camp there. On arrival we thought it was a great location and looked forward to an early night. As we were sitting in the hut chatting a man pulled up in his car and came towards the hut. We greeted him and thought it was strange that he didn’t greet us back. His behavior was shifty and awkward. He left the hut and started pacing back and forth a little distance away and kept looking at us, clicking his neck with his hands periodically. Our gut instinct told us he might be planning to mug us. After awhile he drive off and we ran as fast as our painful feet, now numbed by adrenaline would carry us. We didn’t want to wait around for him to bring back reinforcements or come back once we were asleep in our tent. It was dusk as we ran up over a hill on a rocky trail and down the other side into the town of Usa. It was dark and the town only had one minshuku (B&B) that we could find , located all the way at the end of it and over a huge bridge. </span></div>
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<span class="s1">We made it and are now safe and comfortable in our gorgeous room on futons on tatami mats in a room decorated with a samurai sword, Henro scroll and an intricate wooden carved temple. </span></div>
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<span class="s1">I also just received an email from Hawaiian Airlines saying that our return flight has been canceled due to downsizing flights from Osaka to Honolulu. We’ll have to deal with this in the morning.</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-4517721063638504852020-03-18T22:28:00.001-07:002020-05-16T17:15:16.861-07:00Temple 28-33<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 17px;">My left heel is very bruised from impact injury. I’ve got newer more cushioned insoles, taking anti-inflammatories and taped up the heel per a video we saw on YouTube. I’m going to use my trekking poles like walking sticks and put more weight into my hands on the poles. Lesson learned: when doing long asphalt hikes with a heavy load, you need very cushioned insoles. The Saucony insoles that came with my trail running shoes have been compressed into nothing and are now paper thin.</span><br />
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<span class="s1">It is impossible to camp in many of the city walking sections and a hotel or minshuku (B&B) is sometimes our only option.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">This section consists of paved road walking for many, many kilometers through one village and town after the next. Although the sun is out, the air is crisp and we can see thick snow on the mountain tops in the distance. </span></div>
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<span class="s1">Temple 28 (Dainichiji) is a place where it is believed that illnesses above the neck can be cured. The trail tried to spit me out at this point. The heel pain was taking over my brain and telling me I couldn’t go on.... “but I said no, no,no”, with the help of OTC pain relievers and a very caring and compassionate hiking partner who took some of the heavy water load on his back.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Temple 29 (Kokubunji) is a place where legend has it that if you pray to the same number of stars as your age, you will ward off misfortune and bring about good fortune to your life. </span></div>
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<span class="s1">Slow and steady gets you there and as long as I keep moving slowly I can keep going. The minute I stop, the restart on my foot is agonizing.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Temple 30 (Zenrakuji) This Temple historically fell into disuse when Shintoism and Buddhism separated. Only in 1875 ( after a 7 year spree of burning all Buddhist artifacts) were the people of Japan granted permission to practice whatever religion they wanted to. After discussion this place became Temple 30 in 1929. We obtained permission to have sanctuary on the grounds for the night and are extremely grateful for this ossetai.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Five o’clock in the morning is when we get up, before the monks and caretakers, out of respect so that they don’t have to deal with us packing up our camp. While we waited for the noukyosho office to open at 7am, we went across the road to look at the Shinto temple and grounds.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Kochi City is a sprawling city that seems to go on forever. We walked the highways, byways and village lanes, through a gorgeous botanical garden to magestic Temple 31 (Chikurinji) with its five storey pagoda (built in 1980) It’s original 3 storey pagoda was blown down by a typhoon in 1899.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">From there it was much the same to Temple 32 (Zenjibuji) up on a hillock where we met Sakio from Tokyo. He has also walked the Camino Santiago de Compostela in Spain. This temple has become known to pray for the safety of sailors and fishermen and has magnificent views of Tosa Bay.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">To get to Temple 33 (Zekkeiji) you have to cross a wide river via a free ferry. We arrived at 33 just before closing time and I asked the lady at the noukyosho office whether there was any tsuyado (free temple accommodation) and she said yes... so tonight we are staying in a lovely little enclosed cottage room in which we can sleep in our sleeping bags on our inflatable sleeping mats. Yay to another day on the Shikoku Henro.</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-46179585400210936772020-03-16T04:43:00.001-07:002020-05-16T17:15:34.793-07:00Temple 24-27<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 17px;">A large white statue of the monk Kukai stands over the road from the hotel we stayed in the night before. We are now on the southwestern point of the Muroto Peninsula. Along our journey we came across a cave in which Kukai evidently spent time meditating.</span><br />
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<span class="s1">Temple 24 (Hotsumisakiji) stands in a woodland high up on a hill of course, on the tip of Cape Muroto. In the grounds is a large boulder with several indentations which produces a ringing sound if you throw pebbles against it. The sound is supposed to reach the spirits that have passed. Down the hill we plunged and walked to Temple 25 (Shinshoji) , a place where fishermen pray for protection while at sea. We didn’t count but it seemed like a climb of at least 500 stairs to the main daishi.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Another climb took us to Temple 26 (Kongochoji). While we were sitting drying our tent out above the temple grounds we looked for a couple of rocks to prevent the wind from blowing it and Josh brushed aside something... then jumped back in horror, as he had come across a mesh bag with human hair... super creepy!</span></div>
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<span class="s1">By the time 5:45 pm came along we were still walking along Highway 55 and hadn’t come across a decent place to camp yet. Suddenly a little path appeared into the woods up against the tsunami wall on the beach side of the road and we found a perfect clearing for our tent.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">It’s cosy in the woods here and we’re well sheltered from an icy sea wind that has picked up. See you all tomorrow.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 17px;">Day 12:</span><br />
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<span class="s1">The wind was howling the entire night and we could hear the strong gusts but fortunately we were very sheltered in the woods. By 6am we were pounding the pavement again which continued for six hours before we reached Yasuda Town where we had to climb a very steep mountain to get to Temple 27 (Konomineji). This is considered to be the spiritual checkpoint temple (sekishoji). On the grounds is a beautiful garden, which is said to have healing waters.This mountain climb was an out and back and we asked the very kind lady at a store beneath the trail whether she would mind if we left our very heavy backpacks there and retrieve them once we had descended with our daypacks. It was such a relief not to have to climb with the load on our backs. My left heel is feeling bruised and very painful from all the road hiking.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">By the time we reached Aki Town in the dark, I had been reduced to a limp</span></div>
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<span class="s1">(from heel pain). We booked into a hotel as there is nowhere to camp here and I need to doctor my injury. I hope it feels improved in the morning.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">The kindness of the people here is incredible. The man at the reception desk at the first hotel told us there were no rooms available as there was a gaming convention going on in the city. He hunted down the last available room in a different hotel and then walked us over there to make sure we found it easily. </span></div>
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<span class="s1">While I had my foot elevated in the hotel room, Josh was out hunting for a more padded shoe insole. He couldn’t find any at the grocery store but a man overheard what was going on and offered to take him to a store in the middle of the city, fairly far away and it was about to close.... so he bombed through the streets at high speed, missing the first store by seconds... raced to the next one and translated what was needed. Then he brought Josh back across the city in his work truck and refused any money for the ride... completely amazing!</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-38019625090861686642020-03-14T05:30:00.002-07:002020-03-16T03:40:17.899-07:00Out of Tokushima and into Kochi <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 22px; font-weight: bold;">Day 9 and 10: A long road walk in Kochi</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 22px; font-weight: bold;"> </span><br />
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<span class="s2">The babbling of the river beside our campsite was a delight to wake up to in the early morning. Yesterday evening at dusk with nowhere to stay, after a 31.8 km day of road walking, we came across a man at his riverside work site which had a lovely flat patch of grass along the side and using our translator device, asked him whether we could camp there for the night. He responded yes and actually seemed quite delighted. He left and then came back again offering us sanctuary in his office for the night. We declined politely explaining that we were very happy to be able to camp there. What a kind human being!</span></div>
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<span class="s2">Today we are leaving Tokushima Prefecture which is the end of “the awakening “phase of the henro and we head into Kochi Prefecture which is the beginning of the “ascetic training” leg of the journey.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">Although it’s been a very long day of road walking, the scenery has been gorgeous with ocean vistas. We even met a local surfer who owns a board shaping business who had photos of himself on the walls surfing Pipeline and Jaws in Hawaii. He’s been visiting Hawai’i yearly for the past 25 years!</span></div>
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<span class="s2">One beach town after the next rolled by until we reached our goal destination of the day, the famous Ikumi Surfing Beach north of Toyo Town. The henro hut situated along the highway overlooked the beach and had space for our tent under its gazebo roof. Although we were right beside a main road, everything else about it made it a pretty setting. </span></div>
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<span class="s2">Surprisingly we covered 29km. It’s supposed to rain tonight and we are tucked up nice and cozy in our tent and sleeping bags with the sound of the surf to lull us to sleep.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">Day 10: Highway 55, the Pacific Ocean and us pretty much sums up the day. We did meet another Henro-san <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>named Murai from Japan along the way but he was faster than us and we lost him. </span></div>
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<span class="s2">The journey took us past a few economically depressed communities and unfortunately there was a lot of litter in the villages and flotsam on the beaches. Notably there are tsunami ocean walls, tsunami warning signs and evacuation pavilions all the way down the coast. We were so hammered by the end of a 34 km asphalt road hiking day that we booked into a hotel on the Muroto Peninsula which must have seen it’s heyday in 1978... I haven’t seen a rotary dialing telephone in decades (we have one in our room), the toilets have old crocheted seat warming covers and the wall paper is peeling off the walls. The staff here are wonderful though and put effort into making us feel satisfied. We experienced our first onsen bath here (communal Japanese bath with hot a water soak) where men and women have separate bathing areas, and we ate a delicious supper. Awesome to catch up on laundry and blogging too.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">Hope to be replenished after a good nights sleep.</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-66105266461419248572020-03-11T22:12:00.000-07:002020-03-11T22:12:48.309-07:00Temple 20-23<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 22px; font-weight: bold;">Day 7: Temple 20-23</span><br />
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<span class="s2">Stiff gusty winds woke us up at 5am and we decided to break up our camp and get an early start. We had two mountains to climb, one before breakfast and one before lunch. There’s nothing quite like hiking up a very steep mountain first thing in the morning with <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>heavy backpacks. </span></div>
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<span class="s2">We’ve been on the trail for a week and are starting to feel a little stronger.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">We met up with Gerard from Holland and Raymond from Australia. Although the hiking was tough, the scenery was spectacular, changing from cedar forests to bamboo forests with beautiful views into the valleys below. </span></div>
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<span class="s2">On a side note it would be impossible to navigate this trek with out the Shikoku Pilgrimage guidebook which we purchased at Temple 1. </span></div>
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<span class="s2">Temple 20 (Kakurinji) situated at the top of the first climb was very picturesque and peaceful.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">After Temple 21 (Tairyuji) which is covered with enormous trees has a mystical atmosphere. We took a cable car ride down the mountain which was built in 1992. The vistas were magnificent and it didn’t shorten the hike at all as we had to do 12 km of road hiking making it 1km further to get to Temple 22. </span></div>
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<span class="s2">After buying food enough for 3 meals each thereby burdening ourselves with extra pack weight, a long road walk ensued. Just when we thought we were making excellent progress, another hill climb loomed before us, slowing our pace somewhat. We were in a time crunch and had to make it to Temple 22 before closing time at 5 pm. We arrived a few minutes late but the lady in the noukyosho office kindly stamped our book and scroll. I asked her whether we could camp in the grounds for the night and she gave us permission. Whew! A safe place to rest our weary bodies again. Temple 22 ( Byodoji) is associated with healing waters, especially for leg problems.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">Thank you for sanctuary for the night.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">Day 8: Temple 23</span></div>
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<span class="s2">A chilly morning greeted us on the grounds of the temple. I’ve been sleeping in multiple layers of clothing to stay warm at night: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>merino wool long pants and top, fleece pants over that with a <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>T shirt, fleece jacket, puffy jacket and outer shell. Merino wool socks and a warm hat top it as I snuggle into a cold weather sleeping bag with an additional silk sack.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">We hobbled 23 km along paved roads including highways and byways and arrived to the majestic Temple 23 (Yakuoji) by noon. A place where you pray that misfortune will not fall upon yourself or others.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">Our oasis have become Lawson, Family Mart and 7Eleven convenience stores along the way. Our lunch stop included purchasing food for the next long leg of 77 km before the next temple with not much in between. Onwards and upwards. </span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-59560982577807497222020-03-11T21:49:00.000-07:002020-03-11T21:49:49.557-07:00Temple 18-19<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="s1" style="font-weight: bold;">Day 6: Icy wind and rain to Temple 18-19</span></div>
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<span class="s2">We left our comfy hotel room and braved the icy wind and rain onto Highway 55 out of Tokushima. It really does something to your mind to have gone so far already and loop back into the city we got off the bus at.... but that’s the way the trail goes.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">As we pushed our way through stiff cold winds that bent our umbrellas backwards and braced against cars and trucks rushing past us, spraying us with puddle water we tried to keep our chins up and weather the storm. By the time we reached Temple 18 (Onzanji) the wind had stopped and the sun was out. Originally this temple was off limits to women but Kukai changed that, allowing his mother to enter the temple. Great guy fighting for women’s rights in 800’s.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">The route to Temple 19 (Tatsueji) took us through a beautiful bamboo forest and then farmlands lined with orange trees which we sampled as we walked. </span></div>
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<span class="s2">Our feet were squelching in our wet shoes and socks and Henro-san Josh had developed a nasty blister on one of his toes. We found a secluded spot at the temple to remove our shoes and try to dry them out a bit. As we were sitting in our “hidden” spot, a lady visiting the temple came up to us and gave us ossetai in the form of little bags of nuts and shortbread cookies. She then asked whether we would mind if she photographed us... and of course we didn’t mind. Kindness prevails! A little later she appeared again and handed me a brand new small towel and tried to give me a pair of socks. I graciously accepted the towel but literally had no space in my backpack for more socks.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">An extremely long road walk ensued as we made our way towards a Henro hut within a couple of kilometers of Temple 20. Upon arrival <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>in the dark, we found another Henro was already camping in the hut, so we pitched our tent beneath some trees on a <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>level-ish area beside the hut.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">We have hiked 26km today... only just getting into the groove.</span></div>
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<span class="s2">We fell asleep to the hooting of an owl outside our tent... my aumakua is with me.</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-86509785027680296732020-03-09T05:15:00.000-07:002020-03-09T05:15:57.948-07:00Temple 13-17<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Day 5: Temple 13-17</span><br />
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">We awoke to the sound of a monk chanting early morning sutras at Temple 13 (Dainichiji) and quickly packed up our tent. Across the street is is a beautiful shrine associated with this temple.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Temple 14 (Jorakuji) was a quick 2.5 km from 13. It is said that if a diabetic person prays and drinks the boiled leaves of the Yew tree beside the main hall, they will be cured.... I’m going to research the medical quality of yew tree leaves when I get home. We saw a henro we had met in the mountains from Tokyo and met Gerard from Holland.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Temple 15 (Kokubunji) was burnt to the ground in the 1500’s, rebuilt now. On the grounds are foundation stones from the original seven story pagoda and out back was a Japanese garden. We received ossetai candy treats from a lady in the grounds and the woman working in the noukyosho office gave us one of her brocade name slips (she has done the henro 146 times)!</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Along the way I went into a beauty store to buy some facial sunblock and the sweetest lady working there gave me so many samples because I told her I needed a small tube... more ossetai!</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Temple 16 and 17 were all within 3-4km of each other and we trotted through them, stopping off at a 7/11 along the way to buy food and get WiFi. Another essential stop was a laundromat were henro-San Josh discovered his hiking shoes were coming apart... this could be somewhat of a disaster but fortunately we found a sports store and henro-san Josh bought a new pair. We treated ourselves to a night in a hotel to replenish and recuperate.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Today was a long day of paved road and dodging traffic, our feet are sore, we’re developing blisters and I just needed a soak in a hot bath. Goodnight from Shikoku.</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-44522386896422189992020-03-09T04:27:00.000-07:002020-03-09T04:30:34.498-07:00A Temple in the mist<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Day 4: A Temple in the mist</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">We awoke to pouring rain at 04:30 am and broke up our camp under our rain ponchos. Everything was drenched and we proceeded to climb our way up to the Temple in the heavens, Temple 12 (Shosanji). Arriving at the Noukyosho office looking like drowning rats, the monk at the desk puffing away on his cigarette ushered us inside and had us sit next to the propane heater in the office hall. When I showed him a photo of where we camped last night, he seemed impressed and was concerned about me being cold. He then told us to wait while he went to his living quarters to find us some food.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">According to legend, the monk Kukai cornered a dragon into a cave up here behind the inner sanctuary.... </span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">After we read up about the legend, the monk appeared with two steaming bowls of ramen noodles and bestowed them upon us as ossetai.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Down the mountain we meandered, just to be followed by another nasty climb and once that was over it was downhill all the way onto a paved road running parallel to a river that took us all the way to 7/11 and Temple 13, arriving well after closing time with nowhere to sleep. We rang the doorbell of the caretaker, a lovely woman who told us we could camp on the wooden temple veranda, covered and safe. Not only did she provide us with sanctuary for the night but also brought us ossetai in the form of two bowls of delicious, steaming corn soup. </span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">As we go to sleep at Temple 13, I am in awe of the kindness of the people I have met along the way and an extremely grateful.</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-11471172663185674222020-03-08T19:25:00.000-07:002020-03-08T19:25:20.213-07:00Temple 11 and up a mountain <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Day 3: Temple 11 and up a mountain</span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;"> </span><br />
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Today was terrible and wonderful at the same time. We woke up to the news that some thieves had smashed through our beautiful gates that Josh built for our property on the Big Island and they tried unsuccessfully to break into our container, but the gates are destroyed. We feel devastated and helpless being so far away.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Along the morning walk we saw a sign for a Pilgrim Oasis which meant a 400 m detour. Thankfully we decided to take it and were invited into a most wonderful Japanese family home where we purchased a fantastic breakfast and connected to WiFi for a half an hour. This encounter restored our faith in humanity. Thank you Arakawa family for lifting our spirits with your gracious hospitality.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">When we reached Temple 11 (Fujiidera) we found our French Connectiion Trail friends Valentine and Amelie who we had met yesterday at two different temples. After having a look around Mrs Arakawa came running into the temple grounds waving my plug for my phone charger which I had accidentally left at their house. Again, I was amazed by her kindness for going out of her way to bring it to me and she was relieved that we hadn’t started the long trek up the mountain towards Temple 12. </span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">The journey towards the next temple is a brutal climb, taking us past two abandoned temples high in the mountain top. Today we climbed to 800m/2400ft <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>above sea level which included going up 600m, down 100m, up 300 m, then down 400m where we camped on a bridge beside a river next to what appears to be an abandoned or not very lived in village. As we entered the town, a loud speaker started playing a song at high volume which scared the heck out of us, but when we looked at the time it was 5 pm, so it was probably amend of work day announcement.... but who it was announcing to is the next question! </span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Our camp site is lovely, with the sound of the babbling river and we’re protected beneath a cedar tree. There is rain forecast tonight. We go to sleep saddened by the fact that there are such awful people in the world who would smash our gates but also uplifted by the fact that there are so many wonderful people too, many of whom we have encountered on this walkabout.</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-7967232526292022032020-03-08T19:16:00.000-07:002020-03-08T19:16:14.912-07:00Temple 5-10<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Day2: Temple 5-10</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Waking up on the grounds of Temple 5 was quite a beautiful experience. The huge, gnarled old ginkgo tree towered above the courtyard in the early dawn sky and a feeling of peace enveloped us. We burned three incense sticks and wrote a wish for a safe journey on a name slip which we deposited it into the box. The lovely lady who opened the nkyosho office at 7 am gave us ossetai in the form of a cup of hot coffee and mochi. I had no idea at first that she had given a mochi treat and I thought it was some kind of compressed sugar ball for the coffee, so I plopped the mochi ball into the coffee cup which caused riotous laughter from both of us when we realized what I had done.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Reading through the guide book we leaned that one of the Pilgrim Oaths is:</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">“I will not complain if things do not go well on the pilgrimage but consider such experiences to be a part of ascetic training.” This thought would come in handy later on when we became a bit lost trying to find Temple 6 (Anrakuji) as the henro signs were not as clear but we eventually got there after walking an extra couple of kilometers and having to double back. At this temple there is an upside down pine tree which is supposed to ward off misfortune. Apparently that tree has died and they have planted a new pine tree right side up.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Temple 7 (Jurakuji) has a statue of Jizo Bosatsu, who is believed to cure eye problems. We were amazed that there were many statues of babies with Jizo as well which represents all the babies who have died before birth or as infants.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Cherry blossoms are in abundance everywhere and orange trees look burdened under their loads which makes for very scenic walking. </span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">At Temple 8 ( Kumadaniji) we met an elderly Japanese gentleman who had done the henro 148 times. How this is possible we don’t even know. We met him at the top of an enormous flight of stairs and he took a great liking to us even though we couldn’t understand each other. We received so many ossetai gifts from him including a bar of chocolate, two sticky buns , a tiny pilgrimage cloth bag and two of his brocade name slips ( reserved for those who have done the pilgrimage over 100 times). We were overwhelmed with his kindness and generosity. Josh took a photo with him and we all bade each other farewell.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;"> After getting our stamps at the nkyosho office we met a French couple who were also planning on camping most of the way. </span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">As we arrived at Temple 9 (Horinji), we met Ohenro-San 148 again. He waited patiently for us to complete our visit and then called us over to share a mochi treat with him. What a sweet soul!</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Once again we had to book it to the last temple of the day as the cut off time for getting stamps was looming. Little did we know that once we got there we still had to climb up 200 stairs before we reached the nkyosho and main daisha.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Temple 10 (Kirihataji) is situated up a hill and in the jungle. We considered trying to camp there but changed our minds and kept going since we still had another hour of daylight. Eventually we came upon a Henro Hut which is a rustic hut set up along the way for pilgrims to sleep in. This one was set up on a private property, which is fairly common as many of the locals show support for the pilgrimage by providing accommodation.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">We set up our tent in the hut and settled in for a well deserved nights sleep.</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-31038448444017589942020-03-06T16:27:00.000-08:002020-03-06T16:27:13.451-08:00Temple 1-5 88Temples Henro <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Day 1: Temple 1-5</span><br />
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">It’s a lovely thing to wake up on a chilly morning and be able to sit on a warm toilet seat. Japanese toilets rock!</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Breakfast at our hotel was bright and early, tasty and nutritious and the hotel took us back to the airport on a complementary shuttle bus. From there we took a three hour bus drive to Tokushima train station on the island of Shikoku, followed by a 30 minute train ride to Bando station in Naruto city. Finally after a 10 minute walk from there we arrived at Temple 1 (Ryozenji) named after a sacred mountain in India where Buddha gave sermons. It is here that we each bought a pilgrim top, I bought the conical straw hat, incense, name slips which we will give to people who offer us ossetai (gifts of kindness) along the way. One can also write your name, address, date and a wish on a slip and place it in special box at the daishi hall. Josh bought a beautiful scroll to collect his Temple stamps on and I bought a stamp book ( nokyocho ). Whew... now we felt we had all the necessary requirements to start the journey and it was already 2:00pm in the afternoon.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;"> Temple 2 (Gokurakuji) is a 1.1km walk from the first temple, which takes you on foot through a quaint residential neighborhood.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">In the grounds is a large cedar tree which is said to give one a longer life and people come to this temple to pray for an easy childbirth.</span><br />
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Temple 3 (Konsenji) is 2.1km from number 2. If you can see your face’s reflection in the gold well (konsen) apparently you will live to 92 years of age, if not, you will die in 3 days. We did not look into the well, so it’s anybody’s guess how long we’ll live for.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">By now it was getting late and we had heard that the temples close very punctually at 5pm. We hot- hoofed it along a muddy trail and then along a rural road another 4.9km and made it to Temple 4 (Dainichiji) just as it was closing. The lady at the stamp office graciously stayed open to give us our stamps (nokyo). The monk Kukai is said to have founded this temple which has a long history of disuse and reconstruction but is very much in use today.</span></div>
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<li class="li1" style="color: #454545; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; font-size: 17px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Now that the pressure was off we thought we’d make it the last 2km to Temple 5 (Jizoji) and see what would happen. It was closed when we arrived as the sun was setting. The evening air was bitterly cold and we wondered where we would be able to sleep for the night. A caretaker appeared and we asked him whether there was any free accommodation ( Tsuyado). He smiled and offered us the Incense Hut, a little cabin in the middle of the courtyard where we could set up our sleeping mats and snuggle into our sleeping bags under cover and safe. We feel so fortunate and thankful for our first ossetai received today in the form of a safe place to sleep.</span></li>
<li class="li1" style="color: #454545; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; font-size: 17px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: ".sfuitext"; font-size: 17pt;">Today we only had time for 10km/6 miles of hiking. Amongst the many things we learned was basic temple etiquette, namely before entering the temple grounds gate, one must stand to the left and bow once. Upon entering make your way to the cleansing station where you rinse your hands and mouth with water from a ladel, then proceed to the bell and announce yourself after which you may proceed to the rest of the temple grounds.</span></li>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-46218937052343879642020-03-04T04:11:00.000-08:002020-03-04T04:11:11.659-08:00Arriving in Osaka <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">The ten hour flight from Honolulu to Osaka Kansai International airport was smooth sailing with Hawaiian Airlines on a comfortable Airbus 330. We decided to wear our best anti-coronavirus fashion outfits for the journey and were glad we did as there were a lot of sniffers, coughers and sneezers on the plane.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">Kansai airport is a man made island airstrip which was interesting to land on over the ocean and through the mist on a cloudy late afternoon.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">The minute we touched down we were greeted with such gracious courtesy and friendliness and one of the passport checking officials gave us numerous thumbs up and exclamations when he discovered we were there to hike the 88 Temples Henro.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">After an expensive and relatively short taxi ride to the city of Osaka we checked into our hotel for the night and took a leisurely stroll down the side streets in the dark in search of food. </span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">The night air was crisp at 48 F/8 C, which is very chilly for an island girl but we had a lot of fun, finding the famous vending machines and 7 Eleven convenience store where we bought a few snacks.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">We had removed our masks in the hotel room but noticed that many locals <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>were wearing masks all the time.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">We are so happy to be here and plan to catch a 3 hour bus to Shikoku early tomorrow morning to the start at Temple 1.</span></div>
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<span class="s1" style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">Goodnight from our cozy room in the city of Osaka.</span></div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-15902182439553087932020-01-13T19:20:00.000-08:002020-01-30T16:57:19.349-08:0088 Temples 1200km hike, Shikoku Japan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
88 Temples Henro (pilgrimage):<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOjB8CDFuPxMX9LhSMG9wRF3ZIlNfSdPDOENOhUY_-lw-zDJHSZNoAEeTwFESNZ_ShBjGRPqkIr6l6rHzB-MtqUQzf6tmPVQVRJTFCRs2VPY2br8-dewwkB1QCxgrhbRi2MivgHzfycac/s1600/20180329_120244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOjB8CDFuPxMX9LhSMG9wRF3ZIlNfSdPDOENOhUY_-lw-zDJHSZNoAEeTwFESNZ_ShBjGRPqkIr6l6rHzB-MtqUQzf6tmPVQVRJTFCRs2VPY2br8-dewwkB1QCxgrhbRi2MivgHzfycac/s320/20180329_120244.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annapurna Circuit 2018</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Camino del Norte 2016</td></tr>
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We heard about this long distance hike which has been done by many as a Shingon Buddhist pilgrimage around the same time we had trekked the length of northern Spain (el Camino del Norte), a walking route founded as a Catholic pilgrimage. These wonderful ancient pilgrimage routes are well set up to accommodate those embarking on their ultra-long walks. People set out with a variety of different reasons ranging from religious to personal or simply to accomplish the challenge. This experience will definitely challenge us and give us many hours and days to reflect upon our lives, precious time we would not otherwise enjoy due to the hustle and bustle of modern day life.<br />
The physical difficulties one has to overcome pursuing such a walk, also add to the challenge and gives one a greater sense of satisfaction once you manage to complete it. Thereby, the experience becomes your own personal walkabout or vision quest regardless of your initial intentions.<br />
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The name Shikoku means four provinces. It is one of the smaller of five main islands of Japan, located south of Honshu and northeast of Kyushu.<br />
There are 88 temples situated around the perimeter of the island and the 1200km pilgrimage known as Ohenro, is associated with the Buddhist monk Kukai (born at temple 75 in 774), later known as Kobo Daishi. Pilgrims are referred to as henro. We plan do walk the entire 1200km/750 miles with our backpacks and tent and will be referred to by the locals as o-henro-san. Traditionally the pilgrims can be identified by wearing white clothing, sedge hats and a walking stick. Dreadknot and I both plan to wear the white tunic top, I plan to wear the sedge hat (Dreadknot's hair will not accommodate this hat) and we will use trekking poles instead of the walking stick.<br />
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The route takes you through the four provinces of Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime and Kagawa. Traditionally the journey is symbolically regarded as a path to enlightenment. Temples 1-23 are the "awakening", temples 24-39 is aligned with austerity and discipline (that means it's really difficult), temples 40-65 leads you to enlightenment and 66-88 will get you to nirvana....we'll see!<br />
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The pilgrim also carries a booklet similar to the pilgrims passbook on the Camino de Santiago which we can have stamped at every temple. The stamp is called "nokyo" and is done in the form of calligraphy in the book called "nokyocho".<br />
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Accommodation along the route has a variety of options, ranging from family operated B&Bs (Minshuku & Ryokan) about $50 per night, temple lodging (Shukubo) about $50 per night, hotels range from $30-$60 per night, free lodging for pilgrims (Zenkonyado & Tsuyado) free or nominal fee, roadside huts (Michi No Eki) free and campsites.<br />
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Many of the locals give pilgrims gifts or alms known as o-settai. These range from cups of tea and a fruit to meals or offers of accommodation for a night. A similar idea to being a "trail angel" as I experienced along my Pacific Crest Trail hike.<br />
We had to buy a return ticket, so we've given ourselves 45 days to complete the hike. This breaks down to 16.5 miles/ 26.6km per day if we walk every day. The terrain varies from flat coastal asphalt roads through villages and farmlands to many climbs up steep mountains through forests along hiking trails. The journey will give us the opportunity to experience cultural immersion and enjoy the food, homes and cultural practices of the people of Shikoku.<br />
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<i>A dream came to me</i><br />
<i>I saw how this could be done</i><br />
<i>Eighty eight temples</i><br />
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<i>(Heather's haiku)</i><br />
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We are looking forward to this exciting new journey and hope you'll join us on the adventure via this blog.</div>
Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-67333448666859661212019-06-08T22:15:00.001-07:002020-01-25T22:45:56.490-08:00The Ko'olau Summit Trail: Oahu, Hawaii<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Enjoy this little video I put together of a few clips and photos taken while hiking the epic Ko'olau Summit Trail</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"> from Pupukea to Wahiawa. Absolutely stunning scenery abounds along this spectacular mountain range which runs along the windward side of Oahu.</span><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><a href="https://youtu.be/1KHI8gkzDa4">https://youtu.be/1KHI8gkzDa4</a><br />
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-74699255106805676762018-09-28T01:07:00.001-07:002018-10-14T16:32:50.218-07:00Trekking the Annapurna Circuit VLOG<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Join us along the Annapurna Circuit with our VLOG</div>
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-38490484001942749372018-04-19T04:43:00.009-07:002018-04-25T19:47:38.675-07:00Beautiful Bombay<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EbBK7uhaP2Q/Wth_8w4MH8I/AAAAAAAAFqw/Tc9Yj07pNeQpU068klBqBNDZmeJmlVLTQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
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Having completed the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal, it seemed like a golden opportunity to reconnect with my ultra running friends Amit and Neepa, in Mumbai, India. I first met them in 2009 during my Comrades Marathon race in Durban, South Africa. Amit and Neepa were the first runners from India to compete in the Comrades Marathon ( 89 km Ultra Marathon ), both have completed this grueling race multiple times and subsequently Amit has become the Indian Ambassador for Comrades, written a captivating book about his journey leading up to and including the race ( “Dare to Run”, available on Amazon) and been awarded the “Spirit of the Comrades” award in 2016.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f7ZpQ0kjghE/WtiA39KklwI/AAAAAAAAFq4/Q5-Za2oFR9Q_NUvWfq76w6epxBsFQQTUQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
Neepa is absolutely incredible, having paved the way for female ultra runners in India to participate in this race!<br />
We all share a similar desire for travel combined with running adventures, to test our mettle and keep ourselves fit for living our best life.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2kX4H_he_N4/WtiB2qI8JOI/AAAAAAAAFrE/I4_fjtaN9doPF86A5sNDjS3L3ppKm7b6wCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
Neepa met us at the airport with Khwaja , who has become quite famous amongst their friends after he was mentioned in “Dare to Run” as their driver who helped them train ... ( read the book to find out more)! Right now Amit is in his peak training period for this year’s Comrades Marathon coming up in about 7 weeks or so.<br />
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Our stay with them has been a magnificent introduction to Mumbai and India.<br />
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Over the past month we’ve visited temples and churches of many religions and learned so much about different cultures which has been fascinating and illuminating. We’ve even had the opportunity to feed the sacred cows at a temple.<br />
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Khwaja drove us to the Kanheri Caves in the Sanjay Gandhi National Park, located on the western outskirts of the city. Along the way he pointed out the billboard with the picture of Namrata on it ( the beautiful daughter of Amit and Neepa who is becoming a successful model).<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vUGJSTu_JIM/WtiGDa-Ta_I/AAAAAAAAFso/GNytc-Y_66EbJoc5-uOHQB7LUj3wq1FcgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
It was almost debilitatingly hot and humid as we walked through the park to see these 2000 year old caves and monuments cut into a massive basalt outcrop. They have been dated from the 1st century BC to 11th century AD, an era that saw the rise and decline of Buddhism in this region and these 100 plus caves are precious insights into history.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0BKjM8RD6b8/WtiEAi0LvZI/AAAAAAAAFr0/5WLrL85swkM4NXTr3b9ojnHFv_z4UojFwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
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Most of the caves were designed for simple living in a monastery setting.<br />
A large Buddha, a Bodhisattva who represents compassion and an evolved water management system in the form of water cisterns left us in awe.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3AC_Sq_gPOk/WtiDkhXFX3I/AAAAAAAAFro/h-0gBZa7W_M3RP2igDGMDO-bAoL2AAVUwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
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A visit to Swami Narayan Temple and the Krishna Temple, followed by a walk up to the Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount in Bandra gave us as broad overview of some of the different religions practiced in this area.<br />
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Next up was a fun filled day in South Mumbai and the Colaba district. Beautiful architecture abounds in this area and it really is the place to shop, eat and visit museums and galleries. It was here that we enjoyed a thirst quenching glass of sugar cane juice from a street vendor and devoured wheat free chocolate cake that melted in our mouths at one of the numerous quaint cafes near Khala Ghoda ( Black Horse) Square.<br />
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<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hvD5d3eDH80/WtiIDmYXVAI/AAAAAAAAFtI/Oq861Nn2CEUiNopZ399jMXBxqfY1G_JgACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
We popped into the stunning Taj Mahal Palace Hotel facing the Arabian Sea and Gateway to India. It was sobering seeing the wall of remembrance, tastefully and discreetly positioned adjacent to the lobby area, dedicated to those killed on the 2008 terrorist attack.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4RlG14N7GOg/WtiIXTwui1I/AAAAAAAAFtQ/xIyKHfxSxxQuHFMkynkIgjxlngex5HCPgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
Lunch was enjoyed at the iconic Leopold’s Cafe, also attacked on the same day in 2008, as well as being mentioned in the novel “ Shantaram”.<br />
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A ferry boat ride to the island of Elephanta ( or Gharapuri), 11km out to sea, is a fabulous day adventure. Here we found a series of ornately sculpted, 5th century caves and a main temple cave dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-941bY6t1tMo/WtiJEgIcWRI/AAAAAAAAFt0/j6LvyqPDzY0X1KWVRtJTOzs7w-3NencawCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
These caves have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the residents of the island run small restaurants, market stalls and offer their services as guides.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s04vVB8rY2c/WtiJR70svaI/AAAAAAAAFt4/o5fYhInnqYk4GYPCKFoRGiACnyaUDQ7OQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
We decided to hire a local guide who turned out to be very enthusiastic and informative and we learned so much about the subject.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6UPNyatfZk8/WtiJgN_DzjI/AAAAAAAAFuA/LLx-VEG3w-0Fv3Wauc2u31bV8R1be1RpgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0nTI-YZTqE0/WtiJpnap9SI/AAAAAAAAFuI/AtqvG54NS4EgXiy7CBzmwrYFQ8Jw64L8wCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
During the Portuguese Colonial era, the name “ Elephanta “ was given to the island because of a large elephant sculpture found there. It is no longer there, but there are most certainly lots of brazen monkeys trying to steal food and drink from tourists, by snatching items right out of your hand.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BEROJ6FIRV8/WtiKvi4uA9I/AAAAAAAAFug/s1kRDi_reuwOWIfyOtezY8AhiC-piH-TQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
Unfortunately many of the sculptures were destroyed by the Portuguese who decided to test their canons in the caves. As a matter of interest the Portuguese colonized India in the 1500’s.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MtU_CbTkGXE/WtiK_PG3w-I/AAAAAAAAFuk/4lLgMlAZU84z4DzRUmbpdUvalNLBHACEACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
We’ve gained so much from our visit to India, first and foremost the opportunity to reconnect with our friends.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4vaGmamXjrk/WtiLiu1HiWI/AAAAAAAAFu0/5l3RqQc5hpUfWqaYzEiHU-YPJV9xwag3gCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
It has been fantastic to experience the rich and diverse culture and history and majestic architecture, especially of the Bombay region. In addition, it has been a gastronomic delight, where we’ve been exposed to the delicious tastes and nuances of local and regional cuisine and I’m lucky enough to have been taught a few recipes from Neepa which I can’t wait to add to my vegan blog!<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4N-gR64_CyQ/WtiM62acL2I/AAAAAAAAFvE/_xDpDvMSiOA547qI0XEcUdHA0xJ2wAdsgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
We’ve been staying in the lovely area of Juhu near the beach, which is apparently also the home of some of the Bollywood stars.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WQCsvCoIXQ4/WtiRK48j2uI/AAAAAAAAFvU/kYot2GUhh8gn2iCRrK0Vq5Q4kLRDQMS6wCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
The adventure started with a backpack each and we are leaving with an additional suitcase packed to the brim with all kinds of wonderful items ranging from brass elephant head door handles to a custom fitted sari for me and kurta for Dreadknot.<br />
Over the past month we’ve traveled on planes, trains, automobiles, rickshaws, ferries, horseback and on foot, experiencing different climates, terrains and cultures.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YZS5FY6sF8A/WtiRVTt6TbI/AAAAAAAAFvY/-zMph4SkaTMIOF_OCaAKi6hQHiuZH5SkACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
I realize how fortunate I am in this life and a feeling of gratitude permeates my being.<br />
The fact that I am able to test my personal limits by embarking on fairly challenging physical adventures around the globe is a real privilege. I am eternally grateful for all my opportunities to interact with so many different people and cultures from around the globe, expand my world vision and nurture my understanding that we are all in this together. Rather than focus on our small differences we would do better to focus on our abundant similarities with respect and a willingness to learn.<br />
From India with love.<br />
Namaste.<br />
<img alt="" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--E38wtpsfVA/WtiSKchR3mI/AAAAAAAAFvo/ii3CXP1cpDgEq2qbyKAJYvcLrz3gwzNpACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" /><br />
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Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-59554279150063306612018-04-07T09:46:00.007-07:002018-04-07T18:16:52.394-07:00Completing the Annapurna Circuit: The Perfect Circle <p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lt36SU1kAa0/WsllUsCs5NI/AAAAAAAAFoY/Z81QtPiz3dAkPeM_OZvpv38hViAIb7u-ACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Welcoming in the 20th day, our last day trekking the Annapurna Circuit, we were rewarded once again by somewhat clear skies and spectacular views of the massive Annapurna Mountain Range peaks.
</p>
<p>Standing on the terraced garden of “See You Hotel” with Dreadknot, while admiring the view, I yawned and rubbed my eyes and when I looked up, the mountains were obscured by clouds.... the weather changes that fast up here. As we packed up our backpacks and prepared to leave, it became increasingly more overcast and the sound of heavy thunder reverberated through the mountains.</p>
<p>Leaving Pothana we had to check in again with the ACAP tourist police after we said goodbye to the large group of Dutch trekkers who had their trekking completion party last night which we enjoyed observing, where they thanked and had a very heartwarming dinner party with their many guides and porters. Everyone was having an absolute blast, dancing and being happy together and the feeling of good will and friendship building was absolutely beautiful.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wdsFtVm21j4/WslmoV4WBSI/AAAAAAAAFo4/OkKZH8A6GYQZErFgkj9wL6D5pZUQToBuQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Our route today was to be via Australian Camp (AC) and then on to Kande. Half way along the trail to Australian Camp, the heavens opened and we were pelted with rain and hail. Fortunately we had our trekking umbrellas at hand, rain covers for our packs and we could take refuge in the dining hall of AC. Accompanying the rain was a very fierce wind, driving the rain sideways, leaving us with drenched pants.</p>
<p>The heavy rainstorm lasted two hours after which the sun came out, the wind abated and we continued our downhill walk to Kande where we ended our trek. </p>
<p>On the local bus drive to Pokhara we enjoyed the company of two Swedish hikers and once the bus came to a stop Lakeside in Pokhara, we got out onto the street and I asked a woman we saw whether she could recommend a place to stay. She was from Russia, lives here part of the year and very kindly walked us 1km to the hotel/ family stay lodge she stays at which was perfectly located for all the amenities of this very hip and cosmopolitan part of town.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L0QvSQ0-MpU/WslmL_vwozI/AAAAAAAAFos/EJl5sLGxjhEepdtT3lk3uXcuFvTaE-fPACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>After an afternoon of shopping for clothes to wear, getting our laundry done and catching up with awesome trekking friends who are also in town we feel satisfied and accomplished.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--JPC-QmwvbQ/WslmUxgJKUI/AAAAAAAAFow/ONlh4CZfO6UYtrjtO2fwTF2cdeNfDc7GQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>We’ve been following the red and white blaze, marking the Annapurna Circuit since the start of our journey at Besisahar. According our map “ Around Annapurna” , the official full Circuit follows the path we are taking, while most trekkers end on an alternate, shorter route. This map is a ‘ must have’ and for weight purposes there is a smaller pocket version.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2xjWFKC7BwQ/Wsj2u_j9pPI/AAAAAAAAFno/vawyORbxLeETU7S6SxfaW27oO9WVJ4-tACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Hiking the Annapurna Circuit and walking on foot for 20 days through this region of Nepal, has not only been an incredible and challenging physical feat but also a great journey in learning about this beautiful country, it’s people, culture, geography and history. The kindness we have received along our journey has been wonderful. Most of the tea houses we’ve been accommodated and fed in, have been smaller family enterprises and we’ve felt as though we have been welcomed into these families homes and have had the privilege of being exposed to their daily lives. All of our hosts have been gracious and genuinely interested in where we come from, how far we’re going and we’ve thoroughly enjoyed having warm conversations with them.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Nls1TsWuhU8/WslnA1D8bbI/AAAAAAAAFpE/07LxQH87OLkXFnT1L04tWVAZFJVJQJaRACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>The Circuit has taken us over 230km/150 miles on foot through verdant subtropical farming climates, jungles, alpine forests, high arid mountain terrains above the tree line, through deserts and river beds. The route is a circular journey through the Annapurna Mountain range, giving us an almost 360 degree view of all of the massive peaks. We’ve hiked in the blazing sun, being snowed on and been pelted with rain.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-plfhSUoYKls/Wslojwjmz3I/AAAAAAAAFpc/UshXUTa1RMw39yFKU8mw_cmpXI7Z_p-jQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>The telecommunications system here is really good and we are amazed at the availability of WiFi in virtually all of the most remote mountain villages. There is also massive infrastructure development here at present, most notably with the construction of new roads, which at this time requires jeeps to be able to drive on, but no doubt in the future, more of them will be paved.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g-kYb3ZI-Oc/WslosY8Fn1I/AAAAAAAAFpg/0oOPt3RfcF8OCfszCCExUnFNarDXmJdnQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Thank you to the beautiful people of Nepal who helped make our journey such a pleasurable and memorable experience.</p><p>This trek has also been dubbed a “ world party” and has lived up to this reputation as we have met and interacted with fantastic travelers from around the globe, all united in an epic quest to hike this incredible trekking route. </p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qB1PQHCocK0/Wslp2Y4NTRI/AAAAAAAAFp4/B_c4QPn6eYUPCNKzxJyZKm24Il7EdrL5wCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>It has been worth every step of getting out of our comfort zone. When you travel through a country on foot you experience it in a very deep and personal way, as you are moving through it slowly and experiencing it with all of your senses at all times. The difference between being a traveler rather than a tourist is that you assimilate your experiences into your being in a deeper way.</p>
<p>We are eternally grateful for this opportunity!</p>
<p>Namaste.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3UfuxdvB9CU/WslpNsBRbFI/AAAAAAAAFps/YoDIZokZgiAh6YcxiUg4s4kZO4rWGnPnACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-19401850616081042412018-04-06T06:06:00.012-07:002018-04-07T05:19:38.506-07:00Shikha to Pothana: Trail of Neverending Stairs<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WDS9B0Skaw0/WsdyYvr9ppI/AAAAAAAAFjA/sf8I-GIcuIQYy9_AQxBFNhziNW3KwJvswCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Shikha to Ghorepani: Hail and rain in a Rhododendron forest</p>
<p>Up skyward was the name of the game today....again to 9,380ft / 2860m, our destination being Ghorepani (Horse water). <br></p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4JuIzAbxlBM/WsirVwTub0I/AAAAAAAAFjo/3G0cE7pyY9c2R7SEfnKhiJM0hLCxPKVhQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p></p>
<p>Saying goodbye to our hosts and Patrick from Plymouth, who has been very helpful to us, we started our rock stair climbing through the most spectacular Oak and red and pink blooming Rhododendron forests imaginable. It rained and even hailed with reverberating thunderclaps all the way up and we finally got good use out of the trekking umbrellas which we’ve been carrying all this time. </p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Lgvej4w6lZs/Wsisd0Q0IaI/AAAAAAAAFj0/RNCUVDR2XbgP1hL5NO8eIsKN1VcKKYf_wCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>We had wonderful, friendly encounters with the local people we met along the way today, from porters of other hikers, to school children who spoke very good English. One man we spoke to told Dreadknot that he looks like a scientist... we laughed.... it must be the bushy silver beard!</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tVrJhw4UZX4/Wsiv8AP4CyI/AAAAAAAAFkM/zK8aXeysbwsGYKD-isGJo7Izc1o3twGLgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>At the halfway point of our stairmaster extraordinaire exercise today we stopped off in Chitre for a lunch of vegetable fried rice, apple pie and ginger tea. On a funny note, Dreadknot has always hated ginger and now he is the first to order ginger tea!</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RBaI7jCrnRo/WsisqwRyIwI/AAAAAAAAFj4/GjRkDRU2vCk_aKgPM46eo0pu_Gxc42wpQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Reaching Ghorepani was akin to reaching nirvana, we were so exhausted from all the climbing.....925m/ 3034ft of elevation gain today! That on top of an 744m/2440 ft climb yesterday was killer!</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jcXdsmadiRw/WsixXfScLcI/AAAAAAAAFkY/oLxUUdD1_f0qOlPh2gk_UiFBlyXlgQUVACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Once again, as if on cue, the heavens opened up and unleashed a heavy rainstorm just as we found a room. We were turned away from 2 hotels as they were fully booked at first. It is pouring out there and there is an electrical power outage here on top of this mountain. Ghorepani is an extremely busy trekking town, with multiple lodges and hotels. Trekkers arrive here from every direction to do various hikes that are available from here, the biggest draw card being Poon Hill, which when clear gives epic views of the Annapurna Range.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5MBXPdRVgp4/WsiyPMpm5AI/AAAAAAAAFko/OpBJjawzbNMoSskKtds5Nmvxkof5NkRTgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>The Annapurna Circuit forks into two potential trails to end the Circuit. We are choosing the original longer route through Todopani, Ghandruk, the Australian Camp down to Lumle where it officially ends. Depending on how fast we are able to hike , this will take another 2-3 days, after which we plan to spend a couple of days in Pokhara before returning to Kathmandu.</p><p>It’ll be early to bed tonight, snuggled up in our cosy sleeping bags with duvets on top!<br></p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dBePPa-BDwQ/Wsi1RBWi7LI/AAAAAAAAFmE/O29tJ0kfZRAIsjCMB8cJFyOlxXVXea8nACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Ghorepani to Ghandruk:</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bW_l3qtCbjE/Wsi3GnaqZkI/AAAAAAAAFm0/qoVL3Und0pQg94MFyXNdxMtEPsexyY8uACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>The magnificent sight of the peak of Annapurna South welcomed us into the day. The rains had stopped, the sky was partly blue, still with evidence of a threat of more rain to come.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NuTdHqVaBSE/Wsiy8yJpqXI/AAAAAAAAFk8/1Y8wftFmiLA1K_jDhjNkwSVpl2Lqn0G8gCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>More climbing was the order of the morning out of Ghorepani on the challenging Ghandruk Trail, part of the original Annapurna Circuit. We did not go to the Poon Hill lookout at 04:00 am, as we got the same vistas from this trail at a vantage point high above the town. We could enjoy the peak of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South from the Deurali Pass lookout.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yR3IyBI6U7g/WsizMnYmZtI/AAAAAAAAFlA/kwMVc_YG3hM7FiGQ-SgxsLMzfiGbqNGlwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tvlToC5tDLE/Wsizb8vwR4I/AAAAAAAAFlI/joN_SYDhKJIMMUbOdB5FuKcTuAoCmq1wQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>We climbed back up to 10,600ft/3231m and then endured a punishing downhill on uneven rock stairs, dropping 2000ft/610m in elevation just to have to climb back up another 1000ft /305m before we could enjoy lunch at Tadapani in the mountain top.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0gfDr_AOWGA/Wsiz1kLUzrI/AAAAAAAAFlQ/We5wovEzb50P-oc0LVPFCvrovrn20UfIwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>By the time we reached our destination of Ghandruk, (Nepal’s second largest Gurung community), we were ready to call it a day. The entire afternoon was spent plummeting downhill through a vast Rhododendron forest alongside a stream. Our knees and the bottoms of our big toes were feeling the pressure. </p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-92GRBvbWcNY/Wsi0GxIB3DI/AAAAAAAAFlc/16v7diI4c70QqNj8BllSd9vJpIDlsa6qACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>We walked past a sticker on a pole which read, “ Auditions are being held for you to be yourself. Apply within.”</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YZKe5iHa-yc/Wsi0QtIQ7mI/AAAAAAAAFlk/_B9wQOHAHz0g5kS1ow_3VhBXuFm8VV-wACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Ghandruk is a beautiful town. The views of the Annapurna range include : Annapaurna South, Himchuli, Gangapurna and Macchapucchre(Fishtail). The clouds parted after 6pm to reveal these majestic peaks to us. We are in awe and feel so fortunate!</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9K_Fk-muxpw/Wsi0cX1if7I/AAAAAAAAFlo/C5fI2A-WNtIbKaohXgaCuUfCwRINijYLgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>There is a temple at the start of the town with beautiful views and 670 steps leading up to it from the village, which we walked down. The old part of the village is extremely picturesque, all the buildings built from stone, with slate roofs and neat gardens. We passed by the Ghandruk Cultural Museum and Lama Heritage Resort.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9FQAjG8rW1Y/Wsi0s04sHKI/AAAAAAAAFlw/372sG8I64VwhkND7fu9yp7e9cKwdO5GnwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Relaxing in the dining hall of The Hungry Eye after a hard day of hiking and a freezing cold shower we enjoyed the company of fellow trekkers and were told the unsettling information about a series of recent murders on the trail, it sounded like solo trekkers in particular were being targeted.</p>
<p>After numerous cups of ginger lemon honey tea and Dal Bhat we settled in early to be energized for our last couple of days on the spectacular Annapurna Circuit.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jc0RY2zsZsE/Wsi1oQNrc1I/AAAAAAAAFmI/FKp4VHqP_BkViJ-CZlM3XFP-qzBt_my7ACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Ghandruk to Pothana:</p>
<p>After a knee breaking descent down the mountainside from Ghandruk following a sleepless night due to a chorus of barking dogs, we were faced with the awful reality of climbing up the mountain on the other side to Landruk. To be honest, I was not a happy camper and inched my way up another thousand plus rock stairs. I started feeling a little better after I fished around in my backpack and found a roll of sports chews with electrolytes and glucose in them.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9A-yhs4V824/Wsi13TlHRWI/AAAAAAAAFmU/wjvwnE0fWO4yijLIF3jfMTFuufUy7QyxACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>We stopped in at the Moonlight Guesthouse and Restaurant in Landruk for a bowl of veg noodle soup to give us some more energy to keep going. The owners proudly exhibited the volleyball championship medals earned by their son on the walls. We noticed that the local school high up on these terraced slopes had a good volleyball court in the grounds.</p>
<p>Lesson from the trail: Many small steps make big progress. Just when you think you can’t carry on anymore or you feel that you can’t reach your goal.... just continue moving forward, “ Slowly, slowly” as the local Nepalese tell us and eventually you will get there.</p>
<p>After Landruk, we walked through Tolke still high up in the mountains and then trudged through a few more small villages. We have used our map app map.me often to check whether we’re on the correct trail or not and have even had to backtrack and make a correction.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rDh7qhbQhak/Wsi2FvzS_FI/AAAAAAAAFmY/8g3GSYnvTwcK3_Y4mQZ9k0VROb4FsGTrgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>I had the feeling of being saved when we arrived at Pothana, a haven up in the pine forests, just as the rain started coming down heavily. Our trekking umbrellas have come in very useful during this last section of the hike. We even got to have a hot shower!</p>
<p>Tomorrow is our last day on the Annapurna Circuit. We have chosen to walk every step of this epic hike on the original route, starting in Besisahar and ending in Lumle, near Pokhara. It’s been tough and not many people hike it from start to finish. This last section in particular has been emotionally and physically taxing as we have been going straight up and down mountains multiple times on a daily basis. Tomorrow we go through Australia Camp and then on to Lumle where we finish and will spend a couple of days in Pokhara to decompress.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R394MbaBz1A/Wsi2g1TdHlI/AAAAAAAAFmk/nkFxMust-mYASjgmK5_-daE3CG9kwXYXACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Tonight we are cosy and safe at “ See You Guest House & Restaurant “.</p>
<p>We’ll check in again at the end of our quest tomorrow.</p>
<p>Namaste from Nepal:</p>
<p>N never</p>
<p>E ending</p>
<p>P peace</p>
<p>A and</p>
<p>H happiness </p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0r-R5L-D5JE/Wsi2oCuqbyI/AAAAAAAAFms/_U_rlip43Pk3PW30OSlvjUXvE675VnPrACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p></p>
Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-44804100080090139982018-04-03T05:55:00.003-07:002018-04-03T06:28:52.119-07:00Tatopani to Shikha: Up a thousand stairs<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9NqlxdOUe_A/WsN7mm9DZWI/AAAAAAAAFgs/guwhSqE2GtAmd39S9-W5Ho47dC7ZsuIsACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br><p>Over two suspension bridges , up thousands of rock stairs and then up some more, gaining 735m/2400ft of elevation to get to the town of Shikha was how we started our day. Along the way we stopped at “Excellent View Restaurant “, which is so incredibly rustic, high up in the hills at Ghara. While waiting for our food to be prepared we sat beside two woman thrashing wheat with sticks, endlessly. </p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pppvK7_TwUA/WsN8R21reOI/AAAAAAAAFg0/HayzCKJe0McljCLEqDoxL0v46iYCEE2rACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p><p>The little children who lived there would peek shyly around the corner to look at us, quickly shout “chocolate “ and then run away and hide after being scolded by their mother. They were a very sweet family, the patriarch ran the teahouse and cooked the food which was arguably one of the most delicious meals we’ve eaten on the Annapurna Circuit even though it did take about an hour and a half to prepare. He is very proud of his son who is in the Ghorka Army and he introduced us to his daughter in law and grandchildren. Later on we found out that his house had been torn apart in a storm a few years ago and he was slowly trying to piece it together again. </p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dPJl343356Y/WsN9JdX3LbI/AAAAAAAAFhI/wW3WOmqV65AmTiX3i3JPy7HP9guzOUCFgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p><p>The sky was hazy with a threat of rain and the hillsides were teaming with bird life and beautiful blooming bushes and trees. </p><p>It was awe inspiring to look at the terraced hillside across the valley and see how high up on the mountains people lived and farmed.</p><p>We are both feeling lethargic today and are making the ascent slowly.</p><p>Leaving Ghara, the clouds became thick and black and we felt splatters of rain on our skin. We hoped we would make it to Shikha before the thunderstorm broke, which we did in the nick of time. </p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MuRdZpK1BrA/WsN-VJyPkXI/AAAAAAAAFhc/_GnvU5qUyJgl10bwDSZFVylRczNufMw1QCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p><p>Right now I’m typing from a tiny, cosy room at the Mona Lisa Hotel, looking out over the terraced village with slate roof houses and the mountains beyond as the rain pours down in torrents. I am so grateful not to be hiking in this torrential downpour. We even have a bathroom ensuite with a seat flush toilet and enjoyed a luke warm shower which was a treat compared to our usual ice cold showers in an outhouse bathroom which induce screams of shock as the cold water hits our bodies.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ze5_3rcVGy4/WsN-uLI9D6I/AAAAAAAAFhg/M7fTtqBbTRowTQSXaQXEQM3dFvOFuR9cgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p><p>It’s important to keep on top of our laundry daily and wash our socks and underwear by hand, hanging them up to dry overnight a little and then further drying them by hanging items off our backpacks. In this manner, we are able to wear at least clean base layers of clothing everyday, which makes trekking far more pleasant.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ttOQ1BZ578o/WsN_LjBy4GI/AAAAAAAAFho/P5r2toBTIQAxcnvpfXktIzlgy5eUhcIrQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p><p>Another daily issue is clean drinking water. It is advised to use some form of water purification system, either iodine tablets, life straw, UV system or charcoal filter. We have a Sawyer lightweight filter system. There are a few safe drinking water stations in some towns which provide ozonated water, this is preferable to buying bottled water as waste disposal is a serious issue here and the less disposable plastic used, the better. We have observed this problem in many villages where the streams are choked with plastic rubbish.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wXLwCB0_Pcg/WsN_roiy8hI/AAAAAAAAFh0/_Tn-zPjWmAI7RgOlaFLxXe8-aleIxclEACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p><p>Hopefully the rain will stop by the morning and we’ll be able to continue to Ghorepani Pass tomorrow and then onto Ghandruk, whereafter we’ll make our way down to Lumle which is the end of the Annapurna Circuit.</p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9K457ydXYi0/WsOAyABi0wI/AAAAAAAAFiE/vN4QOC9KacAiYccoiA_OUq98YGm24oK7ACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p><p>Fun facts about Nepal:</p><p>National flower: Rhododendron</p><p>National bird: Himalayan monal ( Impeyan pheasant)</p><p>National animal: Cow ( sacred to Hindus)</p><p>National color: Crimson </p><p><br></p><p><br></p></p>Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-45043311741111287822018-04-02T19:15:00.005-07:002018-04-03T05:53:29.908-07:00Ghasa to Tatopani: Into hot water<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BqRbGvYadEs/WsLibaqC0dI/AAAAAAAAFeg/gBR_QtdVCiQJuHRheaSe1P4QdfVPnEFGwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt="">
</p>
<p>Leaving the Mustang district and entering Myagdi in the early morning, we marveled at the lush verdant landscape filled with the sounds of insects and birds. Ghasa is situated on a narrow chasm and is the last town in Mustang .<br></p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IvxOoBFCm0w/WsLkKzU31rI/AAAAAAAAFes/Im8BhIQuj8UThxwk-pKhvAg0AYacziifQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>We had very little sleep last night as the Mustang Hotel filled up with a busload of 30 people all on a pilgrimage to Muktinath and this was the rest point for the night. They arrived late and we thought the hotel was hosting a loud party, then they left early, making a huge racket before the crack of dawn with the result of us getting only a couple of hours of sleep. </p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8tBeXj_JrFY/WsLk95KBLJI/AAAAAAAAFe0/j2acIO9I11cG4HN-Vue0dLP38_bvq3IcgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>As we walked down the street we were astounded to see the beautiful dog who had been following us yesterday. She was sitting on the side of the road next to a local man who squatted beside her, stoking her back and she had a very content look on her face.... we were so happy and relieved to see this.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZYu3-KyCrUs/WsLoKpOusKI/AAAAAAAAFfU/LqqYPU3bGagqqULffXT27K1rCMWg_AwkACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>There was heavy road construction which was blocking off passage along the actual road. According to the map app (map.me) we are using, there was a side trail downhill from the road which we decided to take instead. However, once we got down there, the trail was partially obscured by a rock slide caused by the roadworks. We scrambled over the rocks and realized that the rock slide had also obscured the fork we needed to take leading back to the road. As we backtracked, the bulldozer on the road above us started dumping rock debris down the slope onto the spot we had been standing on 3-5 minutes earlier. This was very scary as huge rocks and lots of loose dirt came hurtling down, too close for comfort, but Dreadknot remained level headed, told me to wait in a safe zone while he scoped out how to get onto the right path. He then came back to guide me over boulders and with a bit more rock scrambling and a good amount of adrenaline pumping we were safe and back on track.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p78ZHftNnpk/WsLoj4X2vYI/AAAAAAAAFfc/i2C-dDn_pp82jkh33IG01XEd6Zs73RXlwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>The rest of the morning we spent walking on the road that was in use despite the fact that was still in the development stage. There was the choice of an off road trekking trail across the river which we were glad we didn’t take as we could see that it had been obliterated by a large natural landslide. There is also so much talk about whether this new road is a good thing or not, but quite honestly whatever is best for the Nepalese people is the only concern. There are plenty of alternative trekking trails and trekkers are simply visitors who are here for a very short period of time. The construction of this road is a massive undertaking and extremely interesting to observe how it’s been done as it hugs the mountainside on the cliff line for much of the way.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4DeXbQg2xqQ/WsLpXwumd6I/AAAAAAAAFfs/PAWhQoXt-ps_vhdBc0Jx6k9FCFfHeY6OwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>We passed “the deepest gorge in the world” and a magnificent waterfall and then crossed over a suspension bridge after lunch to walk along the trekking route to Tatopani, our destination of the day. During one of our rest stops inscribed on a poster was our message for the day, “Life is a promise, fulfill it”.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o2JMYWoUN9A/WsLp2I4In5I/AAAAAAAAFfw/O2gVZCxHX5gFYejTgMSEwf9WfL5qn7IbQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Tatopani ( which means “hot water”), is a lovely little village alongside the river with natural hot springs . As we walked through the village looking for a place to stay we saw many of the trekkers we had met before which was fun, and had to stop in at the Bob Marley restaurant for a drink.</p>
<p>The air is so much warmer down here and it was so pleasant eating dinner at a table outside in the balmy evening with Ohad, a trekker from Israel we had been crossing paths with ever since the early days of the trail in Jagat, after watching the locals getting very into their game of archery.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aUOOJsiXno0/WsLq6Nw9awI/AAAAAAAAFgE/GUTbzpLGH_UaO1cCLaVA9pvv82sPyaUDACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>We are preparing ourselves for another long climb up through the rhododendron and oak forest to Ghorapani Pass, which means “horse water”, regaining 1,660m/5,450ft) </p>
<p>From Tatopani with love.</p>
Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968443755286558796.post-90952194440409319342018-04-01T03:54:00.019-07:002018-04-02T19:48:39.821-07:00Muktinath to Ghasa: Downhill in Mustang<p>Muktinath to Jomsom:<br></p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M7D1XwvdV-k/WsC8zkt0wMI/AAAAAAAAFYI/nMW_MUj90zUWi_hEM0fZKdxdx8oKVXweACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p></p>
<p>Muktinath was covered in a dusting of snow when we awoke at the Bob Marley hotel. As we looked out of the window onto the streets a stream of horses were being led with riders on their backs, some of them dressed quite finely, making their way up to the temple.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j9QKeTY-G70/WsC9Oq9QEvI/AAAAAAAAFYM/4gWLVxpIf6w3-QRX6WxQ7XaAoupeMvt4ACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Dreadknot went down to the street to watch a woman weaving the scarves, hats and ponchos she was selling. He bought himself a beautiful green scarf.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KRqLUjuXhjM/WsC-x_3K0YI/AAAAAAAAFYk/LLQ8eMS7T4oIZqU1wA6_Xz4uLYDzqsLywCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Once we had departed from our tea house, I couldn’t help but admire a beautiful shawl spun on site, which I bought, before checking in at the trekkers police check point.</p>
<p>We were now in Mustang district, the dusty, dry and barren side of the Annapurna mountain range. Muktinath is situated at 3710m/12,170ft at the base of Thorong Peak. Named after the highly revered Muktinath Shrine, the valley is of significance to both Hindu and Buddhist religions. Due to the proximity and extensive influence of Tibet, people of Mustang traditionally follow Bon, a form of Shamanism originating in Tibet.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n13VeN6I09I/WsC_U5dMMNI/AAAAAAAAFYw/qn0u1JDl358j4s3IzhMDykOYC0KMA4AOACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Muktinath is a complex of temples, prayer walls, springs, sacred trees and other natural and manmade features which reflect both religions.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2QH8KkrxcLI/WsDes9iWjsI/AAAAAAAAFZ8/v7KEPlgBm7gxmzqB-QwpZ-07urU05T7QwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>We decided to take the “dreaded” road from Muktinath to Kagbeni, which turned out to be a fantastic paved road with alternate off-road trekking options which paralleled the road. We rapidly descended in altitude with incredible views of what we had left behind us and the lower Mustang valley ahead with its ancient clay citadel and cave dwelling openings into the mountain sides. The terrain is so varied with visible strata, this hike would be a geologists nirvana. <br></p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h_EizHx9los/WsDfDmPmHcI/AAAAAAAAFaA/_XudJCxralQX3m-XA2hFj3ms9ms1wH6UQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Kagbeni is a lush and quaint farming community along the river. Posters along the way advertised “Yak Donald’s”, so we decided to investigate it. The restaurant is absolutely quaint, serving many local dishes and one item on the menu was a “ Yak Cheeseburger Happy Meal”, which Dreadknot ordered and I ate a delicious veggie burger. There was nothing “fast food” about any meals prepared here, as it was all made from scratch.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oyOXlzTL7PY/WsDfiSg0KmI/AAAAAAAAFaM/H_3-UR0S50QlxrM9sG4Tudk9xNDw79wwQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3xmQn4t5hDY/WsDf_bg_X4I/AAAAAAAAFaQ/wt7WOJ695rYAJ8wLWVpVjlm0jBKYCdZJgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>After leaving Kagbeni, we hiked through the mostly dry, wide Kali Gandaki river bed which used to be the bottom of the Tethys Sea 40 million years ago and is littered with fossils which you can buy as souvenirs. We hoped to find one ourselves but have not had any luck yet.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N2o5blxDm-w/WsDhPBJIe0I/AAAAAAAAFag/GfVScQCXjZ0DeU90hEMzzByqo5e7wBCTQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>The wind whipped at us as we trudged towards Jomsom, our destination for the night. My shawl and Dreadknot’s scarf were put to excellent use during this section, protecting us from the biting wind. Jomsom is a bigger town with an airport and many people end their hike here, catching a flight to Pokhara.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7-3m-SxzqRU/WsDiNPyi0EI/AAAAAAAAFas/BL7fKXIvhBMsHUl5D624I-qLytZH-y-swCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>We passed an Army installation with armed guards at the entrance gate, we had to check in with the tourist police and show our permits and there was a noticeable police presence in town.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IU0VQJkNew4/WsDjVSlryAI/AAAAAAAAFa4/KqbTUVOR1_s7xr2ydzwu0lmIH8LFtoLkACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Xanadu was our teahouse for the night and we met up with four British trekkers whom we had chatted with since Yak Kharka. One of them had lost her sunglasses prior to crossing the pass and now her eyes were damaged. She could not see, they were watery and her lids were swollen. This was a result of snow blindness. Fortunately she was able to be evaluated by a doctor in Jomsom and received the appropriate eye drops and dark glasses. We really hope that she recovers well because having sunburned retinas is serious business.</p>
<p>I was still feeling weak and ill and decided I would seek medical attention in the morning if I didn’t feel any better.</p>
<p>Both completely wiped out and exhausted Dreadknot and I collapsed and fell asleep immediately.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G-sILFFDkRc/WsDk9s9oFjI/AAAAAAAAFbI/lwnPLtY36U8FSBzAPxSFmsy6AIDtZGq_ACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Jomsom to Larjung: </p>
<p>We had read so much about why people left the trail at Jomsom. Some people had time constraints and other people stated that it isn’t worth hiking because of “the road” that’s been built. We prepared ourselves mentally to do a lot of road hiking but we were surprised and delighted at how little road walking we actually had to do as there are alternative off road routes all the way along.<br></p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ymum8u03g1c/WsDm2VXf--I/AAAAAAAAFbg/cK3kPKXvvx01HHFVUWX4wH9ec-JDHjKWACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>A lot of the trek today consisted of walking through the almost dry Kali Gandaki but then, after crossing a suspension bridge we entered a delightful trail shaded at first with willow trees and apple trees in blossom until we reached a Tibetan Refugee Camp that was undergoing restoration amidst an evergreen tree forest. Following on from this we passed pleasant villages and a school and then the trail hit a fork, one leading towards a road walk and the other continuing in the forest. Just after we headed down the path continuing into the forest we arrived at an army post with armed guards. They asked us where we were from and allowed us through the boom gate. This was obviously a military training camp. Their tents were set up amidst the trees and there were AK47’s visible at guard points. I felt a bit uneasy and wanted to hurry through this section.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2trM4D85Shc/WsDoyewig9I/AAAAAAAAFbw/mmStmcU3L9QrR2gQ-Ve0JE1mOFytnLzdwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Once we left the training camp area, we discovered that the trail had been washed away by a massive landslide, removing all markers, which was a little disconcerting for a moment. Since we couldn’t see a bridge across the river where there was supposed to be one, according to the map, we wondered how we would make it to the other side without backtracking or climbing a steep trail in front of us. </p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vdEGiBQwv2w/WsF7qEa_fJI/AAAAAAAAFdo/BVXJ1rcNKWE5IWKbH6aq48C9nXAloEEUgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Fortunately at this point we saw two men crossing a tiny wooden bridge barely visible over the fast flowing deep channel portion and we made our way across the partially dry Kali Gandaki onto the side of the river we needed to be on.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iuBM6jCJrQg/WsF5eTE8LPI/AAAAAAAAFcg/HW_ZlW4-kGAZ56KHkKSoNOXzR_Y34hSLQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>At Tukuche, where we thought we might stop for the day we encountered a beautiful memorial stupa in honor of a Japanese man named Akio Ujihara who was the founder of the union of Tukuche (Nepal) and its sister village Toga (Japan).</p>
<p>The next village of Khobang was tiny with few options for tea houses. We did however see the trio of trekkers we had met before from Italy, Spain and Brazil who said they had hiked far enough and were waiting to catch a bus. After saying our goodbyes we continued on to Larjung were we are sleeping tonight. </p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WUpLG4jzcJM/WsF5ygpByvI/AAAAAAAAFco/7DJLg2OXTK8YFJiKEWXs_Aq6SjsDaW1JgCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>The Riverside Lodge is very rustic, situated along the river we walked along, surrounding by the awe inspiring Tukuche and Tukuche West snow capped mountains.</p>
<p>Exhausted but improving in health we go to sleep feeling satisfied with our progress.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0oh0FehR5HE/WsF58byysDI/AAAAAAAAFcs/q5Nh2wIXrfwsDGssXQu8Re2HWGOiTWRvwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Larjung to Ghasa:</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J1PlY0fRS1Y/WsF7QmRnc4I/AAAAAAAAFdg/YLVK3iqvog0qG8RdEfqpMc2jz2l2ElEuwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Our morning consisted of crisscrossing Kali Gandaki and walking along the ACAP ( Annapurna Conservation Area Project) trails, which was extremely pleasant. The trail took us through small villages along the river with beautiful weeping willows lining the banks with their gorgeous waving branches of emerald green.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2l20p4VMZbA/WsF6KD5dm0I/AAAAAAAAFc0/j0fC-tItXv0D7TA6AQiUuOEAap7NfKmawCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Kalopani was our lunch stop. It was a little early for lunch but when we saw the luxury Annapurna Coffee House & Bakery we had to stop. This place is exceptional and from what we could gather, Kalopani looked as though it had a fair amount of new development.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1jV1Fn76c8Q/WsF9X86ewgI/AAAAAAAAFeA/4pLU0U6ltJQMtDDB11EmozFKdPrAb9XTQCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p> Once back on the trail we meandered through a lovely pine forest and a very friendly dog was suddenly beside us. We tried to shoo her away so that she would return home, but she would have none of it. We hid behind a rock so that she couldn’t see us anymore but she attached herself to the next hiker. We had now walked very far from the place we first met her and we were concerned she wouldn’t be able to find her way home. After more stern shooing she finally turned around and we felt so worried for her and are hoping for the best.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--_dZbnIrx_8/WsF6bpcRKRI/AAAAAAAAFdA/ZDgcnaZdP4oQrBHazIKeZHgK_2W3iOnZACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>We did do a fair amount of road walking today, but when we say “road” it is actually a rutted jeep track. The only vehicles on theses roads are motorcycles, jeeps, tractors and maniac bus drivers.</p>
<p>Many of the passengers in the jeeps would lean out of the window as they passed us a take a photograph.</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bjecZVB5fYI/WsF6qyDBGoI/AAAAAAAAFdI/kkwwMP4ex4guUf3W6TDTcleX7UHMT9ghACHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p>Ghasa was our destination for the day and we arrived at around 3:00pm, which gave us time to wash our clothes by hand at a teahouse and hang it out to dry in the cold breeze.</p>
<p>Tonight we stay at “ The Royal Mustang”, which at least has WiFi that works and we don’t need to use an outhouse toilet in the middle of the night.</p>
<p>Thanks to everyone for well wishes. The antibiotics have kicked in and I’m feeling much better.</p>
<p>The downhill journey continues.....</p>
<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KgPAZ4hGB3s/WsF65jawr-I/AAAAAAAAFdQ/nxW_E6ZFVk0Td9pco0UNBpNp8YHcxvyQwCHMYCw/%255BUNSET%255D" alt=""><br></p>
<p></p>
Heather Howellshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10942880248885978652noreply@blogger.com6