Donostia to Elorriaga (el Camino del Norte)

We left San Sebastián/ Donostia just as the sun rose after thanking our new friend for his incredible hospitality.

It was a very steep climb out of the city after which the Camino varied from paved road to single track trail paths to jeep tracks, rocky trails and more paved roads. 

We met fellow hikers today who were mostly friendly and mostly Spanish speaking and Jose from Portugal. 

There was even a man pulling a cart behind him who is headed all the way to Santiago, so I named Cartman. A handful of cyclists were also riding the Camino on mountain bikes. 

The morning took us over the mountains and down to the village of Orio, a seaside town which obviously has a strong fishing and seafaring history as every second balcony was decorated with large fishing nets and marine themed ornaments like oars and sailing ropes. 

It was 11:00 am and the church bells were ringing as we meandered through the narrow roads and passed by what looked to be the entire community standing outside the church in their Sunday best. It seemed very social and everybody appeared to know each other.

Lunch was enjoyed in the seaside town of Zarautz in a bustling, noisy tavern beside a village square bursting with people and festivities. A spectacular wide beach and beautiful bay is one of the stunning features of this town.

Upon leaving Zarautz we decided to take the alternate route to the next town along the ocean side as opposed to up and over the mountain.

 A 4km pedestrian walkway stretches between the two towns along the seafront like a balcony and is well utilized by locals and holiday makers alike. At this point I'd like to mention that I have not noticed any out of shape people here and I believe the reason is that they all love to walk. We see locals going for walks everywhere. For example some families will walk from one village to the next to eat at a tavern. Walking seems to be a daily activity of enjoyment for a large percentage of the population. 

Between villages we saw this message inscribed on a rock: "It's not what, it's how."

At one of the Albergues along the way that we stopped off at to get a stamp in our Camino passport or "Credential", we ran into Phillip and Gabriel again, who, as they told us had a bit of a rough start to their walk. After we had parted ways in Irun, they had also got onto the wrong trail and inadvertently hiked north to the French border. Upon realizing their mistake, they back-tracked on to the Camino Del Norte and by the time they reached San Sebastián there were no beds to be had anywhere, so they continued walking through the night. Phillip described how they tried to sleep at a bus shelter and a station but where moved on by police. The poor guys where exhausted and weren't going to budge until tomorrow. He said that he wished he'd had a tent.

Josh and I continued hiking until 7:45pm hoping to find a safe place to camp and we did! Just as we thought it was getting a little late we came across a park and a 500m walk to a spectacular scenic outlook which was completely hidden. 

Beside the outlook was a cozy forest offering shelter from the wind. We set up our Big Agnes Flycreek UL3 beneath the trees and after enjoying a tasty Mountain House meal of Pasta Primavera and half a Cliff Builders bar each, settled in for the night....our first stealth camping night on the Camino!

It was cold and the wind was blowing. My new sleep system definitely has pros and cons. To inflate the mattress it requires immense effort to blow it up and I haven't managed to do it on my own yet, always ending up giving it to Josh to blow up. Once inflated though, its extremely comfortable. My sleeping bag is definitely not warm enough for this weather and I have to wear multiple layers of clothing and use my silk sack to give me extra warmth. Josh was toasty warm in his REI Travel Down sleeping bag and his sea to Summit Thermolite Reactor Plus sleep sack.

So far our bodies are mostly holding up. Josh has sore toes and painful spots on his back. My feet and legs are a bit sore and I need to place strips of moleskin on my clavicles. My injury from the fall I had seems to be minor much to our relief!

We are extremely grateful for our tent, safe passage, completing over 20mikes/32km today and each other's company. Buen Camino

El Camino del Norte: Irun to San Sabastian

An overnight train took us to the French- Spanish border town of Irun in Basque Country where our hike officially started.

The air temperature was fresh and chilly as we arrived in a rain soaked landscape after an uncomfortable 11 hour train journey on reclining seats which seemed comfortable at first but as the night progressed we squirmed about in our seats in a fitful state of insomnia. It had taken us 3.5 days of planes and trains to get to this starting point and we were already exhausted.

During the last stages of our train ride we met another Camino hiker who didn't speak English but he smiled and shared some dried figs with us. We learned that he was Gabriel from Italy.Then Phillip from France hopped onto the train too, forming a merry bunch of "pilgrims " as the hikers are called.

Our shells which are the symbol of the trail are secured to our packs.

Once off the train the other two sped off into the distance never to be seen again (or so we thought), and we struggled to find the start of the trail, eventually coming across two Camino trail signs, each pointing in different directions. 

We picked the route that seemed to have the better trail markings thinking that it was the Camino Del Norte Route and immediately started climbing up steep mountainous terrain in the pouring rain.

The day took us up and over too many steep hills to count, past verdant farm lands where almost everyone had their own personal veggie garden and apple trees where in bloom all the way. 

We passed through very few villages but one in particular seemed a stronghold for independence from Spain.

 Everyone we encountered were super friendly and helpful even if we couldn't understand each other's language as many Basque people speak their own language, Euskara and not Spanish. 

As we went through one village a large 10 piece band was performing in the town square, blasting out a Basque version of "Sweet Home Alabama ". 

Onwards and upwards we went, high up into the mountains and did not encounter any other hikers. 

The trail was sodden with ruts in the jeep tracks filled with muddy water. As we descended on one of these tracks, I slipped on an area of slick clay mud and fell hard, the pain that ensued made me think I had broken either my knee or tibia and I lay in the mud trying to regroup while extreme pain seared through my being, thinking that there was a potential that our hike might be cut short on day one! Fortunately nothing was broken and I was able to continue on. 

Eventually we did come across a father-daughter duo of pilgrims, both named Renee. They marveled at meeting two other hikers on the Camino Vasco Del Interior or (Tunnel Route), an upcountry, interior trail from Irun that eventually joins up with the Camino Frances. It was at this point that we truly realized our mistake but fortunately there was another branch of the trail that rejoined the Camino Del Norte at Donostia (San Sebastián). 

After hiking this trail for another couple of hours we reached the beachfront of Playa la Concha in this extraordinarily beautiful Basque city. 

No campsites were in evidence so we went around to all the hostels and Pensions but everything was booked out. Just as we were planning to stealth camp along the city edge inbetween some wet bushes in the pouring rain, we tried one last ditch effort to get shelter at an establishment which shall not be named by request from the man who works there as he allowed us in and let us sleep in an empty conference room for free including a shower and laundry. Once again I am encountering an abundance of human kindness in this walkabout and we experienced our first Camino Angel. Mucho Grascias to this wonderful human being.

Best item in our backpacks by far are our trekking umbrellas!

Getting to the start via Vancouver, London and Paris

Traveling from Hawaii is always a feat of endurance and the journey to the start of our Spanish adventure has certainly been that. The first leg on Canadian airline West Jet took us to Vancouver where we decided to get out of the airport during our long layover and experience the city.

Vancouver is a beautiful city and it was a good thing that we had our walking shoes on as we walked 10 miles/16 km seeing all the different districts.

After breakfasting, we starting a walking tour is the old Gasworks district of the city which amongst other things boasts a handsome steam powered clock.

This ornately designed clock weighing over two tons was the first of it's kind and whistles and chimes once an hour.

A walk through the historically rich Chinatown ensued and we learned a lot of history simply by walking along and reading information available on signs posted next to various attractions. For example there was an explanation of the meaning of all the motifs painted on the archway leading into this district.

I always enjoy being in cosmopolitan cities with a culturally diverse population. It gives the city a richness and adds to the flavor of the experience.

The Downtown section includes a blend of old Art Deco and new modern glass high rise architecture, giving it a gorgeous feeling of contrasts.

From the Waterfront we ambled along Coal Harbour enjoying the views of the water and snow speckled mountains of the north shore of Vancouver on the other side of the Harbour. 

The waterfront was bustling with active people out jogging, cycling, roller blading and walking to and from Stanley Park, the stunning green space located along the waters edge giving one fantastic vistas of the city and the opportunity to admire some ornate native totem poles.

Onwards from Vancouver we flew on the red eye to London Gatwick where we spent a glorious afternoon catching up with my wonderful son Ian.

After lunch and a few hours of talking story at a pub and coffee shop we continued on to Paris, arriving at midnight after a quick flight across the English Channel.

No more flying now. Finally we were on foot with only our backpacks, ready to crash for the night so that we could enjoy the city of Paris the next day in the company of my friend Nakita who is meeting us here.

We awoke to an extremely misty Paris and enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast, fueling up for the trek ahead. Widespread rain with thunder and lightning is forecast for the next few days. Oh happy backpacking! I'm already grateful for our trekking umbrellas.

Bonjour from the city of lights. Such a fabulous day in a new city! We certainly made the most of it. What a treat seeing Nakita again! 

We started out with champagne and macaroons at the Galeries Lafayette, a shopping mall like none you've ever seen  before beneath an exquisite domed ceiling.

After toasting to our most excellent good fortune of being able to be there, we made our way to the rooftop to enjoy a misty view of the city.

As the weather cleared up our walking tour continued past the iconic Eiffel Tower where we almost got ripped of by a bicycle taxi driver who quoted us one price and aggressively changed his quote after a few meters of the ride. We simply jumped off and walked away, giggling about the encounter later on.

After another 30 minute walk uphill we came to the Arch de Triomphe, a magnificent landmark monument, after which we savoured a delicious lunch overlooking it from a sidewalk cafe.

Jumping on and off the metro underground train saved us many miles of walking, although we still managed to walk 11 miles with heavy packs on our backs.

Sadly, we only got to see the exterior of the Louvre Museum but time was if the essence and we couldn't dilly dally too long as the three of us still wanted to see the Notre Dame Cathedral. 

A roll of thunder sounded and the heavens opened up making us feel extremely grateful for having our trekking umbrellas in our packs.

The cathedral made famous by the story of The Hunchback of Notre Dame, really is a work of art and a pleasure to admire from all it's angles.

Walking along the bank of the Seine River at the end of another fabulous day was the best way we could have ended our very eventful one day visit in Paris. One of our take homes is how friendly and helpful the Parisians we encountered were, contrary to what we had heard from other travelers in the past.

Au Revoir as we board our train to the Spanish border town of Irun to start hiking El Camino del Norte.

I am a proud Big Agnes Ambassador

I am extremely proud to be an ambassador for Big Agnes outdoor and camping gear. As I mentioned before, I hiked the PCT solo and survived in my Flycreek UL1 on the trail from Mexico to Canada, sometimes in awful weather and the tent kept me warm and dry. This tent was definitely put to the test with that experience!

Now I'm looking forward to camping in my palatial Big Agnes UL Flycreek 3 as I backpack along El Camino del Norte, the ancient trail that exists across northern Spain from the French border town of Hendaye, along the coastal belt towards Santiago de Compostela and finally the ocean at the "end of the world". 

I'm also looking forward to trying out some of the other Big Agnes gear that I've been sponsored, including the Mountain Cross sleeping bag system, including the Double Z sleeping pad which is extremely comfortable. I understand why the company has the slogan "Mother of Comfort".It is an inflatable pad, so I'm hoping that I don't get a puncture but it comes with a small puncture kit. After trying out this new sleeping system, I can't believe I survived for so long in the wild on my previous adventure on that thin, hard pad I used before. This time it's going to seem like I'm sleeping on cloud nine!

So this hike I'll have a different jacket, sleeping system and a bigger tent. I'll be reporting on it all as we go.

If you're inspired to try out any of their gear, have a look at the website:

www.bigagnes.com

Here's a quick view of what we have in our packs:

Two Feathers:

Josh:

Happy trails! Now go and sleep in the dirt!

Meet the Author Library tour

Wonderful "talk story" today at Kapolei Library. The audience was engaged and people left the event with books in their hands saying that they were feeling inspired to pursue their own dreams! Doesn't get much better than that! I had a similar response to my talk at the Kahuku public library a couple of weeks ago and really want to send out a heartfelt thanks to the public library system in Hawaii who host authors and encourage people to embrace the wonderful world of reading. Mahalo nui loa. Unfortunately someone did walk off with one of my books without paying for it after I signed it... I like to live in a world of trust, hopefully it was a mistake. 

EL CAMINO DEL NORTE: HIKING ACROSS NORTHERN SPAIN: THE PLANNING PHASE

CHOOSING OUR TRAIL: EL CAMINO DEL NORTE

I cannot wait to embark upon my second ultra distance backpacking adventure, this time along the northern coastline of Spain with my partner Josh. We'll be starting in the French border town of Hendaye, traversing El Camino del Norte along the coastal route of the Basque Country taking in the spectacular views of the Bay of Biscay, continuing along the coastline of Cantabria into Asturias. At the town of Villaviciosa we plan to go inland along El Camino Primitivo, which goes up into the rugged mountains, crossing into Galicia along our journey towards Santiago de Compostela and finally arriving at "the end of the world" at Finisterre on the western coastline.

After hiking the Pacific Crest Trail from Mexico to Canada solo in 2014, I came home to Hawaii, wrote my book "Dream it. See it. Be it. ~ Discovering your potential at the end of your comfort zone." and allowed the brilliant experience to percolate. Then following a very enjoyable 3000km campervan trip in eastern Australia, we decided to embark on a long distance hiking expedition in Europe somewhere. Life pointed us in the direction of Spain and one of the many hiking routes which cross the country. After much research we decided on the northern route, as it was described as being less populated with hikers compared with El Camino de Frances (the most popular route), more rugged and mountainous and the promise of sweeping ocean views along the trail also make it seem quite desirable. I've decided to stick with my trail name of Two Feathers.

Most people that hike any of the Camino routes, have ultralight backpacks and stay in Albergues or pilgrim hostels, which consist of big dormitories filled with bunk beds, bedbugs and sometimes 40 other snoring people. We have read many stories about people rushing to get a bed in a village which would mean you have to get to a hostel early to secure a space thereby significantly cutting into your available hiking time for the day. Considering that we have 30 days to hike approximately 1000km/ 621 miles, we need to cover 33km/ 20 miles per day and can't waste time in this manner. With this in mind, we have decided to hike with a tent and camp. There is minimal information out there about backpacking this route and camping along the way, so hopefully my blog will be helpful to others who wish to do the same in the future. From the minimal information we've been able to gleen, it seems that we'll have to undertake a lot of stealth camping, but as long as we are 2km outside of the town boundaries, this does not seem to be too much of a problem....we'll see.

OUR TENT:

I lived in my Big Agnes Flycreek UL1 for 146 nights along the Pacific Crest Trail and it kept me safe and warm but I was hiking solo and was trying to be ultralight. Now that I have a hiking partner we have opted for a Big Agnes Flycreek UL3 which feels palatial in size and we're looking very forward to setting up our trail home along the journey. A huge thank you to Big Agnes for their sponsorship, it is truly an honor to be an ambassador for such a fabulous brand of outdoor adventure gear. I'm sure there may be occasions when we'll opt for a bed in an albergue.

HISTORY OF THE CAMINOS:
These hiking routes have been used since the ninth century as a pilgrimage for Catholics. St James (or Santiago) was martyred and according to Spanish legend his remains were smuggled into Spain and buried in present day Santiago de Compostela. After the Moorish invasion in the 800's and many battles resulting in almost certain defeat, legend describes a vision of St James appearing on a white horse and leading the Asturian army to victory. At it's peak in the middle ages hundreds of thousands of pilgrims are said to have made the journey to Santiago de Compostela to honor the saint.
Nowadays, hikers pursue the journey for many different reasons, including but not limited to pilgrimage, adventure, cultural experiences and personal "walkabouts" or "vision quests".
Everybody gets a Pilgrim Passport, known as a credencial which is a document that you can get stamped as you go through every village and town which turns into a treasured momento. Once you arrive in Compostela the Archbishopic will award you with a completion document called the Compostela, but only if you have met certain distance criteria. This credencial also allows you to make use of albergues.

THE CULTURAL EXPERIENCE:
I've learnt that Spain consists of seventeen autonomous communities, some regions having very distinct cultures, history and their own language. As mentioned El Camino del Norte goes through the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia.

The hike starts in Irun, the first town in Basque Country which has it's own language (Euskera), flag and identity. I've heard of this region as being a popular surfing destination and have met a few surfers travelling from there to Hawaii. Basque people have a history of seafaring and now boast producing nearly half of Spain's industrial output. Two of the famous towns the trail goes through are San Sebastian (Donostia) and Bilbao, meandering inland and going back to the sea at Pobena.

Cantabria and Asturias are the next regions. There are interesting Paleolithic remains and cave paintings. Moorish wars were fought here between the mountain ranges of the Picos de Europa and the Cordillera Cantabrica. It has steep sections, high humidity and rainfall, all set between cattle farms, forests, sleepy farming villages and beaches.

The Camino Primitivo branch starts in Asturias and goes up into the mountains taking the hiker into Galicia with it's own language of Galego. Walking conditions become easier and the trail takes you to the big Cathedral of Santiago. From there we hike another 84km/ 52miles to the ocean at Finisterra.

OUR GEAR:

We're going to have heavier back packs than the average Camino hiker as we have decided to camp.
TENT:
Big Agnes Flycreek UL3
BACKPACKS:
Two Feathers: ULA Catalyst Ultralight Back pack aka "The Purple Monster"
Josh: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Windrider 3400
TREKKING POLES:
Black Diamond for both of us.
RAINGEAR:
Golite and Swing Liteflex Trekking Umbrellas, Frogg Toggs ponchos and rain suits.
Pack covers.
SLEEPING BAGS: (placed in separate stuff sacks)
Two Feathers: Big Agnes Mountain Cross (sleep system with integrated sleeping pad)
Josh: REI travel down bag.
SLEEPING PADS:
Two Feathers: Big Agnes Double Z
Josh: Thermarest Prolite Regular
SLEEP WEAR:
Two Feathers: Merino wool black thermal underlayer 'Ninja Outfit', merino wool socks. Silk sack. Beanie.
Josh: Under Armour longs. Silk Sack. Thermal Sack (Sea to Summit Reactor Plus).
WARM LAYERS:
Two Feathers: Marmot fleece top and Big Agnes Marvine Jacket, PHD
 Smartwool long hiking pants.
 Josh: Columbia fleece top and North Face Thermoball full zip jacket. Brooks cold weather active pants.
HIKING CLOTHES:
Two Feathers: Nike running skort and top, sweat wicking socks, Adidas AX hiking shoes. Outdoor Research Seattle Sombrero hat. Yoga pants and long sleeve running top for cooler weather. Sunglasses. Dirty Girl Gaiters.
Josh: Board shorts, polyester T-shirt, Adidas Boost Terrex hiking
shoes, wool socks. Outdoor Research Seatlle Sombrero sunhat. Sunglasses.
COOKING:
Jetboil ultralight stove, 2 plastic sporks, Sawyer water filters, Smart water bottles.
A small selection of Mountain House and Backpackers Pantry backpacking freeze-dried meals for emergencies.
A few bars and trail mix snacks. Prepackaged coffee mix for Two Feathers.
We'll be getting most of our food daily from villages we pass through.
                                   
FIRST AID:
Foot care: Needle and thread for blisters. Antifungal cream. Betadine fluid.
Ibuprofen and Acetaminophen. A few band aides. Mosquito repellent.
TOILETRIES:
Camp suds for soap and shampoo. Toothpaste. Toothbrush. Hairbrush for Two
Feathers. Sunscreen lotion. Hand sanitizer, razor, toilet paper. Backpackers trowel.
Wet wipes ( 2 small packets).
MISCELLANEOUS:
Crocs Flip Flops for showers and rest shoes. Smart phones. GoPro camera. International plug adapter. Phone chargers. Notebook and pen. Gloves. Head nets. Pepper spray. Guide book (which I got a lot of my blog information from).

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